We are proud to introduce the CorkSport HPFP Rebuild kit for the Mazdaspeed 3, Mazdaspeed 6, and Mazda CX-7 Turbo. Replace every seal in your HPFP with a brand new, E85 safe O-ring/X-ring made to exact OEM specifications. The perfect reliability upgrade to install with your CS HPFP internals, we even include new hardware and a security Torx bit to help the install go smooth. Read on for more details and be sure to give us a call if you have any questions!
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The potential for HPFP failure
While the HPFP internal upgrade is a must-have mod for any Speed, the rest of the HPFP is commonly ignored. As the cars get older and ethanol blends are used more often, the factory O-rings can begin to break down, causing fuel dilution in your oil, and the potential for HPFP failure. The CS HPFP rebuild kit replaces all your seals so you can be confident that your HPFP is performing exactly as intended.
Was the HPFP system designed with ethanol in mind?
With the MS3 and MS6 coming out right around the time ethanol mixes in gasoline were becoming more common, itโs hard to say if the HPFP system was ever designed with ethanol in mind. We spent months researching and testing on a car and in isolated conditions to find the best O-ring material for gasoline and ethanol blends. Each seal in the CS HPFP rebuild kit uses this material so your Speed will operate properly no matter if youโre using the standard pump gas E10 mix, and E30 mix, or even straight E85!
To ensure the correct size for all seals, we were lucky enough to come across a zero mile DISI MZR engine. The HPFP was disassembled and all seals were carefully measured to ensure each O-ring exactly matches the OEM specification. We even had tooling made to produce a custom X-ring that matches the exact specification of the OEM X-ring. This is vital as the X-ring fits on your HPFP piston and needs a precise fit to ensure an OEM quality seal between the fuel chamber and your cam follower.
Lastly, we include hardware to replace the annoying Torx screws that are used in the OEM HPFP assembly. The small security Torx can be notoriously difficult to remove, so we even include a bit to help with removal. As with all CS products, the HPFP rebuild kit comes with full-color installation instructions to guide you through the rebuild and ensure you know where each and every component goes.
Searching for more power for your speeds MZR engine?
Are you building your DISI motor, and trying to figure out your next setup? Say no moreโฆ
This next Mazdaspeed-focused blog is going to focus on making some big power numbers, and what it takes to get there. Now is the time to go beyond the scope of the 400-wheel horsepower to look at what it takes for 500 horsepower at the wheels.
In our 400 WHP blog, this is not an all-inclusive guide and the only way to achieve these power levelsโฆ However, itโs something thatโs been tried and tested for years and proven to be a reliable method of making the power youโre after. We are aiming to educate you in the best way to make the most out of your MZR engine.
Letโs get started
With the MZR engine being out for over 10 years, itโs had a lot of time under the knife. We know how the engine responds to different airflow mods, tuning characteristics, fuel, etc.
We also know that 400 Whp is about the limit of the stock bottom end on the Mazdaspeed 3. If you have a Mazdaspeed 6, then you can assume itโd be a bit less given you have AWD and need to account for further drivetrain loss.
It is beyond this point that the motor is in danger and could potentially let go. Keep in mind that at 400 Whp you are nearly doubling OEM power output, and thatโs a lot of strain on those pistons and rods that were never designed to endure that power long term. If you are wanting to go beyond 400 Whp then you should know that you are also looking at the price tag of a Built motor.
Now, if you are relatively new to this, and arenโt very familiar with the basic building blocks of the platform such as the Cobb Accessport, and Upgraded Fuel Pump Internals, then I invite you to read our 400 Whp Blog to build a good foundation. Do you feel you have a good understanding of what it takes to get to 400 Whp? Then you are ready to read on!
When youโre at a point in your build that you are seeking 500 Whp then itโs safe to say that you probably have gotten the more tedious stuff out of the way… You probably have about every bolt-on modification, and you understand what itโs like to work with a professional tuner.
That being said, letโs do a bit of a recap on the 400 Whp mods, so you have a good idea of where we need to go from here.
These are all the recommended/required mods to increase engine airflow and efficiency to make 400 WHP.
– Stock Fueling on Pump Gas usually nets around 330-350 Whp depending on octane and gas quality.
– Stock Fueling on E85 blend fuel usually nets around 370-390 Whp depending on Tune aggression and also Quality of the gas and E85.
– With Aux fueling such as port fuel, or methanol you can easily bump up over the 400 Whp mark and beyond. (Iโll get into the differences more in a bit)
Putting down 500 Whp pretty much requires many of the same mods that 400 Whp does, BUT the primary game changers are the Advanced Bolt Onโs and Fuel.
(If youโd like to refresh your memory on the basic bolt-ons and how they affect your Mazda please refer to the 400 Whp blog.)
Iโm ready for more POWAHH
In the grand scheme of things, making the 400whp is relatively easy and affordable considering it can be done on the stock block. With bolt on parts, fuel, and a tune you can easily hit that number. But as soon as you want to make more, youโre looking at a built engine, as previously mentioned, And thatโs a whole new can of worms.
So, whatโs all involved in a built motor? Thatโs a bit of an open-ended question as there are so many variables to take into consideration. However, โbuiltโ engines usually contain forged pistons and rods with upgraded bearings to handle more abuse. From there, the complexity increases as you get into port work, cams, etc. I will touch on that a bit more later.
Fortunately for you, most engine builders have their entry level engine ready to handle 500 wheel horsepower and itโs a pretty basic build that features stronger internals. But, the tedious stuff like port work is usually reserved for the higher tier engines that are usually built for more power.
I wonโt get into the engine building side of things, as that could turn into a whole other tangent. But you can assume that a built motor may cost you anywhere from 5k and up dependent on the level of motor you go with. From there we can start piecing together our 500 Whp build.
Letโs Talk TURBOโS (Crowd Cheers)
The turbo is the heart and soul of the Zoom-Zoom, so it seems like a suitable place to start.
As we know, the CST4 is happy up to around 400+ Whp. Which is why it was the recommended turbo in the 400whp blog. But now we are ready to take a step up to the CST5 Turbo for the Mazdaspeed which is happy up toโฆ You guessed it! 500+ WHP. With the ability to hit 20 PSI by 3500-3600 RPM and Carry out 30 PSI it really packs a punch for its size. You may be needing to upgrade your intake to pair to the T5, Iโd recommend our Power Series 3.5โ Intake I mentioned earlier. It will come with the 4โ coupler required to mate up to the turbo.
The turbo is available with an internal gate, or an External Gate so you can choose what works best for you. Both options can hit the same power numbers.
Letโs Talk Fuel
โWhat options do I have for bigger injectors?โ
At CorkSport I get this question rather often. Unfortunately, I must tell them โThere arenโt anyโ
Without going too off topic here I will explain why.
Our cars feature a Direct Injection fuel system or DIโฆ And by todayโs standards, itโs a bit primitive. The MZR DISI was one of the first pioneers of modern DI, which is probably why the OEM high-pressure fuel pump canโt even sustain the full potential of the factory injectors. Donโt worry, the CorkSport Fuel Pump internals fixes that problem.
Port Injection is simple and easy to maintain. It works by spraying low pressure fuel into the intake runner where it atomizes in the air stream before entering the combustion chamber. For car guys, itโs fantastic and easy to swap out injectors when you are ready for more fuel.
Direct Injection takes a whole new approach. Instead of the fuel going in through the intake manifold, it goes DIRECTLY into the combustion chamber.
In order to overcome the force of compression, the fuel must be highly pressurized in order to atomize correctly. It also must deliver more volume in a shorter amount of time. This is why your Mazdaspeed has a high-pressure fuel pump.
This causes a whole lot of complications for injector developers because things like fuel pressure also become a huge variable when attempting to create a larger Direct Injector. The bigger the hole on the injector, the more fuel pressure is required to create adequate atomization. Combining that with the rarity, and size of the Mazdaspeed platform, itโs just not worth it for any manufacturer to develop one.
So, whatโs the solution to getting more fuel? Wellโฆ As previously mentioned, you pretty much have 2 choices Port Injection or Methanol. Since both of these are considered Auxiliary fueling, they are controlled by separate controllers, unless you want to ball out and get a Motec ECU that can control the OEM engine systems, as well as your port fuel.
Choosing which system, you want to go with solely depends on your power goals, and how much money you have to spend. Those 2 factors are pretty much the only question you need to ask yourself.
Methanol โ Cheap and simple
Port Injection โ Expensive and Reliable
You must remember that the OEM fuel system, even with E85 in your tank is only good up to around 370-390 WHP. So, everything beyond that is supported by your AUX fueling. If your extra fuel system stops spraying for any reason, that could lead to catastrophic damage depending on how much youโre relying on it. When youโre just trying to nudge over the 400 whp mark on a CST4 or CST5 then Methanol is usually fine in my opinion. But beyond that, Iโd be concerned with the reliability aspect.
When you have a properly set up port fuel kit (Manifold with fuel rail required) it behaves almost as if there is no AUX fueling system. This is especially the case when you have it all integrated into your factory gas tank and donโt need to fill up a separate cell. A quality Port Fuel Kit is pretty full-proof.
Youโll have to make the decision thatโs best for you, but Iโd recommend a port fuel kit to support 500 Whp, vs a heavy spraying methanol kit.
Letโs Talk Manifolds
Manifolds are responsible for transferring all the air in and out of the motor from their respective cylinder. This job is an important one as it needs to distribute the gases as evenly as possible. The more even the flow, the better the performance!
On the Mazdaspeed Platform, the OEM intake manifold is known to be the bigger restriction over its exhaust counterpart. With very unequal flow distribution across the 4 runners, it has been proven not only to restrict power but also cause premature wear and tear on cylinder #3; hereโs why.
This is caused by โover-feedingโ air to #3 in comparison to the other cylinders. Over time this #3 is actively running leaner than its counterparts which is why itโs been deemed the most common cylinder to blow if an engine does give way.
It is because of this, that I always recommend a CorkSport intake manifold for even stock power levels. It may not be required to make 500 Whp, since you can essentially just turn up the boost to counteract the restriction. But in the name of reliability and efficiency, you should always try to help your engine breathe with the most minimal effort while also helping it maintain its health.
The OEM Exhaust manifold may not be as bad as the intake manifold, but itโs still not ideal, especially at this power level. A performance exhaust manifold needs to be designed with exhaust scavenging in mind.
Exhaust scavenging is a very cool effect. The exhaust gases leaving the combustion chamber travel out the individual runners and enter the collector. Itโs at this point that it creates a vacuum-like effect on the runners, assisting the exhaust gases to escape from the other cylinders. This constant scavenging helps improve exhaust flow dramatically, especially when you start making power over 400 Whp.
You can learn more about exhaust Scavenging in our Blog that dives deep into it and shows examples comparing our Exhaust Manifold to OEM!
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When you replace both the Intake and Exhaust Manifolds with a performance unit you are drastically helping your motor improve its efficiency, which can mean 3 things.
1. Make the same power on less boost. 2. Make more power on the same boost. 3. Make Way more power on way more boost.
When you have to push your car less to make the power you want, reliability improves, and it also needs more room on the table for when you want to make even more power later on. That leads us to our next topic, Efficiency Mods.
The Cherry On Top
With a built motor, full bolt-ons, fuel, and a big enough turbo you can easily hit 500 whp.
However, efficiency mods such as Camshafts or Throttle Body will help you make more power easier, or really push the limits of your turbo by improving its ability to perform.
Our CS Camshafts are ideal when you start getting into this power range. It helps with everything from turbo spool, midrange power, and top end. Even on K04 powered speed 3โs / 6โs our cams netted around 20 Whp. You can imagine the kind of exponential improvements it can make as you move up in power.
That being said, if youโre already having a motor built, or you happen to be going inside your motor, its not a bad idea at all to toss these cams in. They will only help you, and if anything, help your car to not need to work so hard when youโre pushing its limits.
To top that off something like our CorkSport Throttle Body has been proven to make more horsepower and flow 33% more CFM than the OEM unit. Up until recently, no other throttle body has been a viable option due to drivability issues. But CS now offers a drop in plug and play unit that doesnโt come with the problems and utilizes OEM ECU logic to function. Modifications like the throttle body are the awesome little bonuses you can do to help the car hit that 500 Whp mark even easier.
Letโs Recap
So, to cover everything that weโve learned: This is what we recommend to achieve 500 WHP
We hope you enjoyed reading this blog, and now have a better understanding of the details that go into making 500 whp. Next, we will be reviewing the inโs and outโs of 600 whp!
You had questions, we had answers. Here are the top 7 questions we found on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter:
Question: What would be involved/required for CS to develop injectors for the MS3/6?
Questioner: Vincent Pham
Answer: Fuel injectors, especially direct injection, are complicated high-precision electromechanical devices. A project like this is outside the โnormal rangeโ for a small company like CorkSport; therefore, we would have to team up with an injector manufacturer like Bosch to tackle this project. We would also need lots of money. Even with these huge hurdles to overcome, we are investigating the project.
Question: Whatโs the most power you have seen a SkyActiv-G engine put down?
Questioner: Shane Foster
Answer: I havenโt heard of any high-power SkyActiv-G, and we probably wonโt know for some time, unfortunately. Currently, the 2.5L SkyActiv-G engine produces 165hp at the crank, which is nothing to brag about in a market full of 300hp turbo 4-cylinders and 600hp V8s. Although the SkyActiv engines do have something to brag about, they are some of the most technologically advanced engines on the market. With a 14:1 compression ratio, direct injection, and variable valve timing thatโs designed to run on 87 octane fuel, there is huge potential for power. CorkSport has an eye on this potential. For more in-depth information, checkย out the link below.
Question: Best way to clean carbon on the direct injected cars without pulling manifold and media blasting them?
Questioner: Alex Gonzalez
Answer: From my research and personal knowledge, everybody has their own method for better or for worse. One method is to use a ยฝโ diameter hose attached to a shop vac and scrap away, but I donโt recommend that. Another method is to use the PCV port on the intake manifold to slowly suck Seafoam into the intake runners, but again I canโt say I recommend it. You canโt control how much or which ports it goes through and the idea of running something other than gasoline through the combustion chamber bothers me. Ultimately, you should remove the intake manifold and then clean it with a heavy-duty foaming engine cleaner. This will also give you a chance to inspect the intake valve and I do recommend purchasing an EGR delete kit.
Question: What oil should I use in my speed?
Questioner: Alex Duran
Answer: Alex, you really want to stir that pot? O-well, letโs give it a shot. I personally run Mobil-1 Full Synthetic and half a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer for 3000 miles. Iโm not going to recommend a specific oil, but I will say this. You should run a full synthetic oil and quality oil filter. The oil should be SAE certified and have the manufacturerโs suggested viscosity or be slightly thicker. I say slightly thicker because I have found good results when doing so with higher-than-factory horsepower setups and in severely worn engines.
Question: Think you guys will ever offer full performance engines and components. I.E. big valve head, billet cranks, high comp pistons, or a 2.5 bored to 2.7 with all that plus cams?
Questioner: Colt Krahwinkel
Answer: Iโm going to assume this question is directed to all recent Mazda engines for the sake of variety. Unfortunately, we have no plans for the naturally aspirated SkyActiv-G engines other than bolt-ons; there just isnโt a big enough market for that investment. As for the DISI MZR engine, we have produced camshafts and plan to re-release those in the future. Other bolt onโs are either already done or planned, maybe even a turbo, but we donโt plan to get into the engine internals.
Question: How well might breathing mods affect power on the Mazda 2? Say CorkSport SRI, Headers, and CorkSport exhaust?
Questioner: Mike Wildt
Answer: With the combination of those, the highest gain I would expect on a Mazda 2 is 20hp. The exhaust manifold would show the biggest gains, followed by the SRI. The exhaust system will give marginal gains, but a little grumble is always nice.
Question: Why do you highly recommend resonated over straight pipe? (Referring to the Gen2 Mazdaspeed 3).
Questioner: Phil Young
Answer: This can be a very biased opinion and is probably the most highly debated subject among all automotive enthusiasts. Despite that, I will try to throw in some facts. Personally, I canโt stand an exhaust system with an excessive drone. If you can barely hear your passenger, then whatโs the point, right? Thatโs why resonators are important and why I should define the difference between resonators and mufflers. Resonators are typically canisters with strait-through design and perforated tube and packing material. Mufflers generally are canisters with chambers and baffles that divert flow. The resonator does not reduce the grumble of the exhaust that we love; it targets specific frequencies that cause the annoying drone. Mufflers are the opposite. Also, we have had many customers order the strait pipe exhaust system to return it for the resonated exhaust later.
Thank you for your questions, and keep themย coming. We’ll have a Q&A every month for your Mazda performance questions.