A couple of weeks ago, CorkSport was contacted about a toy drive put together by a local car group called Tuner Coalition. They had heard about a group of kids at a local hospital that had hardly ever experienced a true Christmas. CorkSport loves to give back to the community, so we wanted to make some kids super happy this holiday season.
We all know that Christmas is about giving, so that’s what we did. I learned there is no better feeling than knowing your contribution will make a world of difference in someone’s life. That is our main goal here at CorkSport. We strive everyday to help our customers meet their goals and enjoy their modifications. It’s all about bringing happiness to others. And just look at how happy these kids will be.
This was not only a toy drive, but also a car meet. I brought my Mazdaspeed, and there was a first generation Mazda 3 that had some cool exterior upgrades. I also had the pleasure of meeting some really cool people. Even though we drove different cars, we were there for the same reason and shared the same passion for cars.
I had the pleasure of talking to a guy that owned an Ecoboost Mustang. He had a lethal performance turbo kit installed on the cusp of making 500whp. Needless to say, his engine bay was really clean; it had been meticulously hydro-dipped by a friend of his. I always liked the Ecoboost Mustang for its indirect relationship with Mazdaspeeds. The car definitely looked cool, and drew a lot of attention. He was a very humble guy and only had nice things to say about the my Mazdaspeed. He saw the front mount intercooler on my car and instantly had to know what was under the hood.
CorkSport loves to be a part of these types of events, and we encourage anyone to participate as well. We are here to help our community in any way possible. We would love to hear about some of your holiday car meets, and any kind of fundraisers you may have attended this holiday season! Get in touch with us on Facebook and Twitter to share your mods and stories.
You’re busy. We get it. You’ve got a Mazda to mod, places to drive your sweet ride, a job to do, and you’ve got to carve out a little time for that special someone. Who’s got time for holiday shopping? The lines are long, the mall is packed, and the weather — and how poorly most people drive in it — isn’t helping things. If you’re like us, you probably haven’t even started shopping yet. Which is why we’re here to help.
Whether you need to get your buddy a knockout gift for your car club’s Secret Santa or your mom’s blowing up your phone looking to add items to your list, check out our suggestions. It’s the best way to make sure grandma doesn’t get you an ugly sweater, again!
Sure your car looks good, but how do you look? Nothing undercuts the envy you’ve generated when you pull up in your dope Mazda more than a holey old shirt. Suit up with our Turbocharged T-shirt and you can look as fly as your ride. Make sure to check out the rest of our merch as well. Your modded Mazda isn’t complete without a sticker or license plate frame letting the world know you’re rocking some of the best hardware on the planet under your hood.
Looking to optimize your stock fuel system and protect your engine? These are the parts you’re looking for! It took us over two years of research to innovate this high-pressure fuel pump for your Mazdaspeed. Always a flawless fit and incredibly high efficiency, CorkSport’s MZR DISI Max Flow Fuel Pump Internals are precision machined, then treated, coated, and machined again. Who wouldn’t want to find more horsepower under the tree this year?
We don’t really need to explain this suggestion, right? Even if you have the 1–6 box set, it’s time for an upgrade. What would Dom do? Whether you receive it or gift it, a limited edition box set of, arguably, the greatest car guy movie franchise of all time is sure to be a hit.
Gifting one of our newer parts is always a surefire way to deliver a great holiday treat. An awesome addition to a turbo-charged engine bay, the CorkSport Mazdaspeed MZR Bypass Valve is a smaller piece that offers the same amount of force, so it increases turbo life while putting an end to premature wear-and-tear. It’s the gift that keeps on giving: a high-performance valve that stands the test of time.
Granted, it’s not the sexiest gift, but sometimes functionality is what counts. You want to keep your ride spotless and this Black & Decker car vacuum will be invaluable in that regard. Save money on trips to the car wash and keep that interior detailing tight. It’s not the size of the vacuum, it’s how you use it!
This is the perfect stocking stuffer for a Mazda Performance maniac. Our “Ultimate Mazda Performance Guide”, written by CorkSport’s own Derrick Ambrose, is a great guide for beginner and intermediate modders, and a good resource for expert-level enthusiasts looking for a refresher course. With over 160 pages of detailed info and full color photos, it’s the one stop shop for ways to get the best performance out of your Mazda.
Go big or go home this holiday season! Sure the price tag on this turbo upgrade is on the higher end, but it’s a joy to receive or give, especially if you or your special someone need a worn out or smoking turbo. And installation is a cinch. It easily bolts into your Mazdaspeed with no mechanical modifications to replace an undersized OEM turbo and supports a range of 250–450 horsepower. You’ll come in first place this holiday season if you splurge on this gift. And hell, if you don’t get it, this is as good a place as any to cash in those checks from your aunts and uncles.
While we don’t recommend driving as recklessly as they do in most of those Russian dashcam videos, it’s always fun to revisit your excursions with other Mazda owners. Add some new tech to your car to match all the dope hardware under the hood. If you get one, show us where you take it out for a spin on social media. We’d love to see how you’re putting those CorkSport parts to use!
If your wallet is feeling a little light, but you still want to secure some great gifts, make sure to peruse our clearance section. It’s the perfect place to lock down some excellent parts at low prices that can help you arrive with a sack full of gifts in your sleigh, without demolishing your bank account. Once these parts are gone, they’re gone — so don’t wait too long before looking into this holiday gift option.
Regardless of what you end up buying as a gift or receiving in your stocking this holiday season, make sure to show us your new parts using #CorkSport on social media. Nothing brings us more holiday cheer than seeing the joy new CorkSport parts bring to our customers. Happy holidays!
If you are on the forums or Facebook groups, you have probably seen the “I smell gas under the hood of my speed” post by that person trying to troubleshoot their car. Then, 10 minutes later, they post again announcing the stock hardline from the pump to the rail has cracked on their speed. And now they have to visit the dealer to get a new one for $100, which will likely fail in the same manner.
We grew tired of seeing the same thing come up, so we are happy to announce a solution the CorkSport Braided High Pressure Fuel Line. The line provides a durable and reliable solution to the crack-prone OEM hard line that loves to leave you stranded.
We made our line out of 314L stainless steel fittings with a SAE100R14 Stainless Steel Braided PTFE for excellent pressure, corrosion, and temperature limits. The Polytetrafluorethylene (PTFE) and Stainless Steel have excellent properties that make our line compatible with gasoline (petrol to our UK friends), ethanol (for all you E85 junkies), methanol, and beer (we do not recommend running your car on beer, but if you need a straw in a pinch…).
Our lines were yield tested to 7100psi before a failure occurred in the form of a small leak, which is a safety factor of 3.2 for an OEM fuel system at its limits.
This is one of those parts that is a must buy, not just a nice-to-have. Fuel fires are nothing to mess with.
The turbocharged MZR DISI engine was first introduced in the 2006-2007 Mazdaspeed6 and was later put in the 2007-2013 Mazdaspeed3. This engine has a High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) that is driven off the intake camshaft. Other MZR engines use different camshafts and don’t have a HPFP lobe to run the fuel pump. This has been a limitation in the market since the engines introduction.
In order to understand the basics you need to know some camshaft terminology. The most common terms are lobe, lift, duration and base circle.
Base Circle – The circle on the backside of the lobe. When the base circle faces the valve the valve is closed.
Lobe – The lobe is the portion of the camshaft surface that is not the base circle. This is when the valve is opening or closing.
Lift – The distance between the base circle and the top of the lobe. This will be the amount the valve is allowed to open.
Duration – The distance, in degrees, that the camshaft is in the lift section. This controls the time that the valve will be open. This is shown in the diagram from A to B.
MZR Flow Testing
The first thing to do was flow test the head to figure out where restrictions might occur. To flow test, a constant vacuum was applied through the head and while slowly opening the valves. This is similar to what the engine is doing while running.
The factory intake ports do not flow much air above 0.350” of lift on the flow bench. The factory camshaft runs rough at 0.370” of lift. Shown in the graph below, minimal flow was increased between 0.350” and 0.400” on the factory head.
Porting is the process of modifying the intake and exhaust ports of an internal combustion engine to improve the quality and quantity of the air flow. After porting the head, there were significant increases in flow, but around 0.400” of lift there was again minimal increase in flow, with more lift. Testing suggests a proper maximum lift of 0.390” for the intake camshaft. Factory heads or ones with a large port should show gains from this increase in lift.
Why Stop at 0.390”?
More lift above 0.390” would require very extensive head work to gain much more power. Another downside of going above 0.390” lift is the valves will require stronger valve springs to maintain proper valve operation at high boost or high rpm. Upgraded valve springs should not be required for a factory head with 0.390” of lift camshafts.
A similar process to that described during the intake lift process was used on the exhaust ports and an optimal lift of 0.355” was chosen. For comparison, the factory runs 0.321” lift on the camshaft.
Limitations of Existing Options
The factory camshafts were designed around a compromise of performance and emissions; from that design criteria, there is still more power and torque available. The reader can now understand why increased lift and duration can release this power. There are limited options to increase lift and duration on the MZR DISI engine.
Reground Factory Camshafts
In order to increase lift and duration on a reground camshaft, the factory camshaft must be welded and reground to the new profile, but commonly the base circle is reduced. This allows the lift to increase and also the duration to be adjusted.
There are limitations with this approach. When reducing the base circle, many other parts in the head will have to make up for the amount ground away. It is essentially limited to the amount ground away. It is also limited by the duration because the profile must fit within the factory profile design.
In order to regrind a camshaft it must be removed from the engine or a new camshaft must be bought. A used camshaft can have wear that cannot be fixed. Buying new camshafts to send out is expensive and adds to the total cost of installing the camshafts.
The only aftermarket camshafts currently available are not designed for the MZR DISI engine. This means the intake camshaft does not have the ability to run the HPFP.
The existing camshafts for the MZR engine were also designed around naturally aspirated (non-turbocharged) engines, so the duration, lift, and overlap between the intake and exhaust camshafts are not optimal for forced induction applications.
The best option to upgrade camshafts is to buy those designed and made for the MZR DISI engine specifically.
In order to start testing camshafts on the car, a blank camshaft is needed. This requires making a mold and casting a generic camshaft from a mold. Then the bearing services were machined to factory specs and after that a few dozen durations, ramp rates, and overlaps based on the engines natural pumping ability were chosen.
After carefully grinding all of the blanks, it was time to dyno the engine and determine the difference in power and torque.
An engine is basically a vacuum pump with the camshaft helping determine at what rpm the pump is efficient. Camshafts allow the power under the curve to be manipulated. If you have ever taken a calculus or thermodynamics class you might have flashbacks.
Potential variations in the engine tune, fuel, outside temperature, and other factors were monitored. The result is clear improvements in power and torque throughout the rpm range. The final design was chosen to limit lower rpm power decrease with a large band of power improvement over 4,500 rpm.
Exhaust Camshaft Comparison
Further examination of the exhaust lobe design is a good example of where the power comes from. When looking at the lift versus degrees as the cam spins, the changes to the lobe profile become apparent.
This change allows the camshaft to lift the valve more and longer. This allows more air to flow out of the engine.
Intake and Exhaust Relationship
The intake camshaft is electronically controlled. With additional tuning, turbo spool and power can be increased by controlling the overlap between the intake and exhaust camshafts. Overlap is the time when both intake and exhaust are open at the same time. Typically in a turbo car overlap is much smaller than in naturally aspirated cars. Below shows intake and exhaust camshafts placed over each other and the area that would be considered overlap.
Fuel Pump Lobe
Recall the intake camshaft drives the mechanical HPFP. In order to allow the end user to have the best camshaft possible and also have reliable fueling and limited wear the fuel pump lobe on the CorkSport intake camshaft is ground to match the factory camshaft lobe and then rechecked to ensure no clearance issues.
The installation of camshafts in the Mazda MZR engine is not easy. Camshaft upgrades should be considered by an experienced enthusiast or professional installation is appropriate. To aid an experienced installer, detailed installation instructions are provided. Successful installation is supported in two different ways.
Have you had your COBB Accessport running in gauge mode, but with so many things displayed it makes it hard to take a quick glance under full-throttle to see what is going on? Or did you make a pass at the local drag strip and forget to turn on logging to see what the maximum boost level or temps you are getting?
We here at CorkSport are in the same boat. So, we decided to take care of the problem with our new gauges. We selected the “Critical 3” that you should be running in your Mazda: Boost, Oil Pressure, and Oil Temperature.
So you’ve installed your brand new big brake kit, and you’re thinking, “These really should keep me under control.” And maybe you’re even dreaming about being the latest, late-braking braker of all time in your run group. Well, before you start celebrating your newfound glory, there are three things you should consider.
Have you installed a downpipe or replaced the turbo in your Mazdaspeed 3? How many times did you hit the aluminum foam heat shield on the back of the firewall and curse the damage done? We have a present for your Mazdaspeed 3: the CorkSport Firewall Heat Shield.
Have you upgraded your intercooler or are you thinking about it in the future? Let’s face it; when you remove the OEM intercooler cover and the TMIC from your engine bay, it leaves behind a rather utilitarian-looking motor with four exposed coil packs, a pile of wires, and sensors, which are not pleasing to the eye. We have the solution for your Mazdaspeed.
Masahiro Moro, president of Mazda USA, recently called the Mazdaspeed 3 “childish” in execution. Most press took this as a kiss of death for the car and speculated that we might never see the model in the market again. I tend to agree. The “Mazdaspeed” brand looks like it’s on the way out the door, but not the performance model itself. I’ll explain.
Good day fellow boosted enthusiast, Vincent here with CorkSport Mazda Performance. Today, I want to share some expert advice with you on diagnosing boost control issues with your turbocharged Mazdas.
I would venture to guess that about once or twice a week, my team and I get a phone call here at HQ related to customers who are trying to diagnose a boost control issue with their electronic boost control solenoids. Whether it’s too much boost, not enough boost, or random and sporadic boost signals, a boost control issue can have you digging around your engine bay for quite some time if you don’t have a good diagnostic procedure.
This blog is intended to function as an aid in diagnosing boost control issues. If you’re interested in a more thorough understanding on how an EBCS works, check out this white paper that one of our engineers wrote. Now let’s get to it!
To start, let’s have a quick review on what an EBCS is and isn’t.
The EBCS is a unit composed of an electrically operated solenoid housed in its own little manifold designed to regulate and route boost signals to the appropriate area in the engine bay. The EBCS is not the mechanical device that physically moves the wastegate flapper to re-route exhaust gases around the turbine wheel, that’s the job of the Wastegate actuator.
Now that we cleared that up, let’s look into some possible causes for poor boost control issues.
I can’t stress this one enough. I would say a bad or improperly routed vacuum hose is the root cause for about 70% of all issues. When diagnosing a boost control issue, start with a visual inspection of all vacuum hoses in the system. Any hoses with nicks, tears, rips, or cuts should be replaced with a good quality silicone vacuum hose. Silicone is preferred because it has a longer life than a traditional rubber hose and tolerates engine bay heat better. Also check to make sure the hoses are not pinched in between anything. I’ve seen cases where a signal hose gets trapped between a nut and stud of some sort, causing it to be completely pinched off and rendering it useless. So make sure your hoses go from point A to point B clearly and perfectly with no stops.
Since we’re on the subject of hoses, let’s also be sure that we’re routing them correctly. Each hose is meant to take some air from one place to another in a particular fashion. Often times guys and gals get in a rush and just start plugging in hoses wherever they see empty spots. This is especially evident on the EBCS unit itself considering there are 3 ports on it that are all very close to each other and it’s quite easy to put the wrong hose on the incorrect port. This is where a good set of high quality instructions becomes helpful, so you always have something to reference.
Important note: Make sure to reference instructions specific to the brand of EBCS your vehicle is equipped with, not all controllers designate the same letters and ports.
Isolate the problem
If you’re dead certain that the above two points check out, then the next logical step is to isolate the problem. What I recommend is to set your turbocharger to run off of spring pressure only. What you would be doing here is running a hose from the compressor cover to the lower nipple on the WGA and then putting a vacuum cap on the other port of the WGA. When this is done, what you’re doing is isolating the mechanical side from the electrical side.
If we perform this and our car runs 100% hitting the targeted spring pressures, then we can check off the turbo or WGA as being the issue and we can return our focus to the solenoid and its components. If when we’re in this set-up and still experiencing a boost control issue, then we want to check out the turbo and its related components. Things to check are the WGA flapper for any binding or contact, and the turbocharger itself for any mechanical issue such has damaged wheels or housings. Also we want to check any boost tubes, intercooler piping, connections, etc. to make sure it’s not skewing any of our signals.
Fix the problem
If you get to the point where you feel the EBCS unit itself is the problem, a simple thing to do (if you have the ability to) is to bug a friend. Say your buddy is running the exact same EBCS as you, ask him to borrow it for half an hour and swap it in. If we leave everything as we had it and swap solenoids, and our problem goes away then we have a really strong reason to believe the controller is the issue and it should be inspected. This is the point when you would want to contact the manufacturer so you can send it to them and have them test it. Don’t try to take it apart yourself! Almost all solenoids have really tiny and precise O-rings that can break easily if mishandled.
These are just some of the most obvious and most likely things to check. Before going to crazy, you still want to be sure that you have a healthy engine and no other forced induction problems such as a massive boost leak somewhere that can skew results.
I hope this blog was helpful and can be useful to some of you. I leave you with some last minute points.
When diagnosing, change one thing at a time to eliminate variables. You don’t want to jump in and change 10 different things and hope for the best. You’ll just waste time and resources.
Double-check your tune. When switching to an aftermarket EBCS, a tune will be required since almost all aftermarket units work faster and are much more precise than an OEM unit.
In regards to vacuum hose length, I can say for 99% of you it won’t matter. Unless you’re running 20+ feet of hose, the length itself will not affect your signals. At the tiny sizes we’re using, you’ll need lots of hose for length to make any noticeable impact. My recommendation is to use just what you need for a nice clean set up, no more and no less.