By replacing the stock camber arms with the CorkSport Adjustable Camber Arms, you can adjust your suspension to accommodate for lowering springs or coilovers and fine tune your Mazda 6 or Mazdaspeed 6 to the appropriate camber setting needed to balance uneven tire wear and improve cornering performance.
Our design offers +OEM to – 4.5 degrees of adjustability along with cross camber adjustment allowing drivers the ability to align their suspension to match their enthusiastic driving style on and off the track.
Unlike other adjustable camber arm options on the market, our unique design includes spherical bearings that replace the soft rubber bushings on the OEM camber arms, providing a true attachment to the suspension of the vehicle for improved handling and road feel.
The ease of adjustability on the vehicle and the unique nature of the spherical bearings will provide you with improved cornering control that can’t be matched by any other options on the market today.
The CorkSport Adjustable Rear Camber Arms are also available for all Mazdaspeed 3 and Mazda 3 vehicles and back for Mazdaspeed 6 and 2004-2008 Mazda 6 vehicles. They come as a set for just $199.00.
The CorkSport Advantage:
Superior Design: Spherical bearings replace the soft rubber bushings used in OEM and other aftermarket camber arms. This will truly attach the camber arm to the suspension of the vehicle for more control and added road feel
Made from reinforced high strength extruded bent steel tubing: Stronger less brittle and more durable than aluminum
Fine Tuned Adjustability: +OEM to – 4.5 degrees of camber adjustment and cross camber adjustability for fine tuning of your suspension
Full Adjustment: Can be adjusted on-car with a wrench while still installed in the vehicle
Sold as a Set: We know you need two so we simplified the math for you by selling them as a set
For more information about the CorkSport Adjustable Rear Camber Arms, check the listing here!
We are happy to announce the return of the CorkSport Adjustable Front Upper Control Arms for Mazdaspeed 6 and GEN1 Mazda 6 to complement the return of the CorkSport Adjustable Rear Camber Arms. Back and better than ever, the CS control arms provide improved handling and easier wheel fitment through front camber adjustability. An impressive 4.5 degree adjustment range ensures you are able to get the camber you want. Whether you are dialing in your handling for the track, correcting your added camber from lowering, or even just adding in more camber for that new wheel and tire setup, the CS adjustable control arms are a good fit for your build.
The focus of the CorkSport Adjustable Control Arms is an easy modification of the OEM camber setting. You only need to jack up your car to easily access the four bolts on top of the control arm. Once loosened you can adjust as needed before tightening everything back up and lowering your car, without even removing a wheel! It’s a great setup for correcting camber from pothole damage or lowering, optimizing your alignment for the track, or adding negative camber to get the stance you want to fit that new wide wheel setup.
Modify your Camber setting without needing to remove your wheel!
At CorkSport lowering spring height (1.5” lower than OEM), our local race alignment shop measured an adjustment range of approximately +0.5° to -4.0°. During the measurements they even complimented how easy the CS arms are to adjust! If you’re lower than CS spring height, you are able to go even more negative due to the natural camber gain of the MS6 double wishbone front suspension. While if you are higher than CS springs, you won’t be able to go as negative.
Truly an easy bolt-in installation with no strange handling geometry changes
Because the CorkSport upper control arms replace the entire OEM upper control arms, we knew that fitment was vital to ensure correct handling characteristics, and an easy installation. These arms were designed directly from the OEM control arms so they are truly an easy bolt-in installation with no strange handling geometry changes. With the added camber adjustment, we also verified clearance throughout the suspension travel and at all camber settings to prevent any strange noises or damage to your vehicle.
We have put the CS adjustable front camber arms through extensive real-world testing to ensure long lasting strength for your car. We have been testing an early production unit on a MS6 for around 6 months at the time of writing. This car has been used in everything from daily driving, to aggressive driving in the twisties, to even hauling heavy loads around. Throughout all of this, the car has been setup with -3° of camber with a 255/40-18 summer tire on a 9.5” wide wheel. We have seen consistent performance out of the CS control arms with no issues whatsoever, so you can be sure they can take whatever you can throw at them!
Each set of CorkSport Adjustable Control Arms is made from A513 steel for long lasting strength and durability. The camber adjustment box on the arms are gusseted for added strength and rigidity. The arms are then finished off with a black powdercoated finish for long lasting corrosion protection and a great look. Each kit also comes with brand new ball joints, castle nuts, and cotter pins to keep everything operating correctly. Plus, we upgraded the rubber bushings where the arms mount to the chassis to spherical bearings. This change ensures good consistent handling feel and reduces slop that can result from old worn out rubber.
That about sums up the CorkSport Adjustable Control Arms for Mazdaspeed 6 and GEN1 Mazda 6! Be sure to check out the product listing for more images, as well as our product video to see these arms in action. If you have any questions, shoot us an email or give us a call, we’re always happy to help!
While the HPFP internal upgrade is a must-have mod for any Speed, the rest of the HPFP is commonly ignored. As the cars get older and ethanol blends are used more often, the factory O-rings can begin to break down, causing fuel dilution in your oil, and the potential for HPFP failure. The CS HPFP rebuild kit replaces all your seals so you can be confident that your HPFP is performing exactly as intended.
Was the HPFP system designed with ethanol in mind?
With the MS3 and MS6 coming out right around the time ethanol mixes in gasoline were becoming more common, it’s hard to say if the HPFP system was ever designed with ethanol in mind. We spent months researching and testing on a car and in isolated conditions to find the best O-ring material for gasoline and ethanol blends. Each seal in the CS HPFP rebuild kit uses this material so your Speed will operate properly no matter if you’re using the standard pump gas E10 mix, and E30 mix, or even straight E85!
To ensure the correct size for all seals, we were lucky enough to come across a zero mile DISI MZR engine. The HPFP was disassembled and all seals were carefully measured to ensure each O-ring exactly matches the OEM specification. We even had tooling made to produce a custom X-ring that matches the exact specification of the OEM X-ring. This is vital as the X-ring fits on your HPFP piston and needs a precise fit to ensure an OEM quality seal between the fuel chamber and your cam follower.
Lastly, we include hardware to replace the annoying Torx screws that are used in the OEM HPFP assembly. The small security Torx can be notoriously difficult to remove, so we even include a bit to help with removal. As with all CS products, the HPFP rebuild kit comes with full-color installation instructions to guide you through the rebuild and ensure you know where each and every component goes.
Are you building your motor, and trying to figure out your next setup? Say no more…
This next blog is going to focus on making some big power numbers, and what it takes to get there. Now is the time to go beyond the scope of the 400 Whp look at what it takes for 500 Whp.
As stated in our 400 WHP blog, this is not an all-inclusive guide and the only way to achieve these power levels… However, it’s something that’s been tried and tested for years and proven to be a reliable method of making the power you’re after. We are aiming to educate you in the best way to make the most out of your MZR engine.
Let’s get started
With the MZR engine being out for over 10 years, it’s had a lot of time under the knife. We know how the engine responds to different airflow mods, tuning characteristics, fuel, etc.
We also know that 400 Whp is about the limit of the stock bottom end on the Mazdaspeed 3. If you have a Mazdaspeed 6, then you can assume it’d be a bit less given you have AWD and need to account for further drivetrain loss.
It is beyond this point that the motor is in danger and could potentially let go. Keep in mind that at 400 Whp you are nearly doubling OEM power output, and that’s a lot of strain on those pistons and rods that were never designed to endure that power long term. If you are wanting to go beyond 400 Whp then you should know that you are also looking at the price tag of a Built motor.
Now, if you are relatively new to this, and aren’t very familiar with the basic building blocks of the platform such as the Cobb Accessport, and Upgraded Fuel Pump Internals, then I invite you to read our 400 Whp Blog to build a good foundation. Do you feel you have a good understanding of what it takes to get to 400 Whp? Then you are ready to read on!
When you’re at a point in your build that you are seeking 500 Whp then it’s safe to say that you probably have gotten the more tedious stuff out of the way… You probably have about every bolt-on modification, and you understand what it’s like to work with a professional tuner.
That being said, let’s do a bit of a recap on the 400 Whp mods, so you have a good idea of where we need to go from here.
These are all the recommended/required mods to increase engine airflow and efficiency to make 400 WHP.
– Stock Fueling on Pump Gas usually nets around 330-350 Whp depending on octane and gas quality.
– Stock Fueling on E85 blend fuel usually nets around 370-390 Whp depending on Tune aggression and also Quality of the gas and E85.
– With Aux fueling such as port fuel, or methanol you can easily bump up over the 400 Whp mark and beyond. (I’ll get into the differences more in a bit)
Putting down 500 Whp pretty much requires many of the same mods that 400 Whp does, BUT the primary game changers are the Advanced Bolt On’s and Fuel.
(If you’d like to refresh your memory on the basic bolt-ons and how they affect your Mazda please refer to the 400 Whp blog.)
I’m ready for more POWAHH
In the grand scheme of things, making the 400whp is relatively easy and affordable considering it can be done on the stock block. With bolt on parts, fuel, and a tune you can easily hit that number. But as soon as you want to make more, you’re looking at a built engine, as previously mentioned, And that’s a whole new can of worms.
So, what’s all involved in a built motor? That’s a bit of an open-ended question as there are so many variables to take into consideration. However, “built” engines usually contain forged pistons and rods with upgraded bearings to handle more abuse. From there, the complexity increases as you get into port work, cams, etc. I will touch on that a bit more later.
Fortunately for you, most engine builders have their entry level engine ready to handle 500 wheel horsepower and it’s a pretty basic build that features stronger internals. But, the tedious stuff like port work is usually reserved for the higher tier engines that are usually built for more power.
I won’t get into the engine building side of things, as that could turn into a whole other tangent. But you can assume that a built motor may cost you anywhere from 5k and up dependent on the level of motor you go with. From there we can start piecing together our 500 Whp build.
Let’s Talk TURBO’S (Crowd Cheers)
The turbo is the heart and soul of the Zoom-Zoom, so it seems like a suitable place to start.
As we know, the CST4 is happy up to around 400+ Whp. Which is why it was the recommended turbo in the 400whp blog. But now we are ready to take a step up to the CST5 which is happy up to… You guessed it! 500+ Whp. With the ability to hit 20 PSI by 3500-3600 RPM and Carry out 30 PSI it really packs a punch for its size. You may be needing to upgrade your intake to pair to the T5, I’d recommend our Power Series 3.5” Intake I mentioned earlier. It will come with the 4” coupler required to mate up to the turbo.
The turbo is available with an internal gate, or an External Gate so you can choose what works best for you. Both options can hit the same power numbers.
Let’s Talk Fuel
“What options do I have for bigger injectors?”
At CorkSport I get this question rather often. Unfortunately, I must tell them “There aren’t any”
Without going too off topic here I will explain why.
Our cars feature a Direct Injection fuel system or DI… And by today’s standards, it’s a bit primitive. The MZR DISI was one of the first pioneers of modern DI, which is probably why the OEM high-pressure fuel pump can’t even sustain the full potential of the factory injectors. Don’t worry, the CorkSport Fuel Pump internals fixes that problem.
Port Injection is simple and easy to maintain. It works by spraying low pressure fuel into the intake runner where it atomizes in the air stream before entering the combustion chamber. For car guys, it’s fantastic and easy to swap out injectors when you are ready for more fuel.
Direct Injection takes a whole new approach. Instead of the fuel going in through the intake manifold, it goes DIRECTLY into the combustion chamber.
In order to overcome the force of compression, the fuel must be highly pressurized in order to atomize correctly. It also must deliver more volume in a shorter amount of time. This is why your Mazdaspeed has a high-pressure fuel pump.
This causes a whole lot of complications for injector developers because things like fuel pressure also become a huge variable when attempting to create a larger Direct Injector. The bigger the hole on the injector, the more fuel pressure required to create adequate atomization. Combining that with the rarity, and size of the Mazdaspeed platform, it’s just not worth it for any manufacturer to develop one.
So, what’s the solution to getting more fuel? Well… As previously mentioned, you pretty much have 2 choices Port Injection, or Methanol. Since both of these are considered Auxiliary fueling, they are controlled by separate controllers, unless you want to ball out and get a Motec ECU that can control the OEM engine systems, as well as your port fuel.
Choosing which system, you want to go with solely depends on your power goals, and how much money you have to spend. Those 2 factors are pretty much the only question you need to ask yourself.
Methanol – Cheap and simple
Port Injection – Expensive and Reliable
You must remember that the OEM fuel system, even with E85 in your tank is only good up to around 370-390 whp. So, everything beyond that is supported by your AUX fueling. If your extra fuel system stops spraying for any reason, that could lead to catastrophic damage depending on how much you’re relying on it. When you’re just trying to nudge over the 400 whp mark on a CST4 or CST5 then Methanol is usually fine in my opinion. But beyond that, I’d be concerned with the reliability aspect.
When you have a properly set up port fuel kit (Manifold with fuel rail required) it behaves almost as if there is no AUX fueling system. This is especially the case when you have it all integrated into your factory gas tank and don’t need to fill up a separate cell. A quality Port Fuel Kit is pretty full-proof.
You’ll have to make the decision that’s best for you, but I’d recommend a port fuel kit to support 500 Whp, vs a heavy spraying methanol kit.
Let’s Talk Manifolds
Manifolds are responsible for transferring all the air in and out of the motor from their respective cylinder. This job is an important one as it needs to distribute the gases as evenly as possible. The more even the flow, the better the performance!
On the Mazdaspeed Platform, the OEM intake manifold is known to be the bigger restriction over its exhaust counterpart. With very unequal flow distribution across the 4 runners, it has been proven not only to restrict power but also cause premature wear and tear on cylinder #3; here’s why.
This is caused by “over-feeding” air to #3 in comparison to the other cylinders. Over time this #3 is actively running leaner than its counterparts which is why it’s been deemed the most common cylinder to blow if an engine does give way.
It is because of this, that I always recommend a CorkSport intake manifold for even stock power levels. It may not be required to make 500 Whp, since you can essentially just turn up the boost to counteract the restriction. But in the name of reliability and efficiency, you should always try to help your engine breathe with the most minimal effort while also helping it maintain its health.
The OEM Exhaust manifold may not be as bad as the intake manifold, but it’s still not ideal, especially at this power level. A performance exhaust manifold needs to be designed with exhaust scavenging in mind.
Exhaust scavenging is a very cool effect. The exhaust gases leaving the combustion chamber travel out the individual runners and enter the collector. It’s at this point where it creates a vacuum-like effect on the runners, assisting the exhaust gases to escape from the other cylinders. This constant scavenging helps improve exhaust flow dramatically, especially when you start making power over 400 Whp.
You can learn more about exhaust Scavenging in our Blog that dives deep into it and shows examples comparing our Exhaust Manifold to OEM!
When you replace both the Intake and Exhaust Manifolds with a performance unit you are drastically helping your motor improve its efficiency, which can mean 3 things.
1. Make the same power on less boost. 2. Make more power on the same boost. 3. Make Way more power on way more boost.
When you have to push your car less to make the power you want, reliability improves, and it also needs more room on the table for when you want to make even more power later on. That leads us to our next topic, Efficiency Mods.
The Cherry’s On Top
With a built motor, full bolt ons, fuel, and a big enough turbo you can easily hit 500 whp.
However, efficiency mods such as Camshafts or Throttle Body will help you make more power easier, or really push the limits your turbo by improving its ability to perform.
Our CS Camshafts are ideal when you start getting into this power range. It helps with everything from turbo spool, midrange power, and top end. Even on K04 powered speed 3’s / 6’s our cams netted around 20 Whp. You can imagine the kind of exponential improvements it can make as you move up in power.
That being said, if you’re already having a motor built, or you happen to be going inside your motor, its not a bad idea at all to toss these cams in. They will only help you, and if anything, help your car to not need to work so hard when you’re pushing its limits.
To top that off something like our CorkSport Throttle Body has been proven to make more horsepower and flow 33% more CFM than the OEM unit. Up until recently, no other throttle body has been a viable option due to drivability issues. But CS now offers a drop in plug and play unit that doesn’t come with the problems and utilizes OEM ECU logic to function. Modifications like the throttle body are the awesome little bonuses you can do to help the car hit that 500 Whp mark even easier.
So, to cover everything that we’ve learned: This is what we recommend to achieve 500 WHP
It’s been a long time coming but it has finally returned:
the CorkSport Front Mount Intercooler Kit for Mazdaspeed 6! We’ve had many
challenges on this project but we’re happy to report that it’s finally here and
better than ever. We originally released this way back in 2012 (check out the
release blog HERE
for a throwback) but the only thing we kept from that kit was the intercooler
core itself. All of the piping, silicone, and mounting has been redesigned for
best fitment and minimizing trimming needed for install. Check out the images
and full info below!
To start things off, let’s look
into the intercooler itself. It is a unique design where both the inlet and
outlet point toward the driver’s side of the vehicle. This means our pipe
routing is a little more complicated than most, but it makes it much easier to fit
as you do not need to relocate your windshield washer bottle or deal with any
of the fitment issues that come with squeezing a pipe through the passenger
side of the car.
The intercooler core is a high
flowing, bar and plate design that measures 21”x10”x3”. This is good for
efficient flow up to 500-550WHP yet adds minimal boost lag, even at lower
power/boost levels. This big core fits snugly behind the crashbar to eliminate
trimming the crashbar or your underbody shields. There is still some trimming required
to fit the core and piping, however almost all of it is trimming on plastic
components, with one metal cut on a thin sheet metal bracket.
Moving onto the piping, the CS
intercooler kit uses varied piping sizes for the hot and cold side intercooler
pipes. The 2.25” hot side pipe ensures the charge air reaches the intercooler
as fast as possible, helping reduce boost lag. The cold side uses 2.5” piping
in the first half and 3” piping in the second half. Having this large volume of
cool charge air directly in front of the throttle body helps with throttle
response and the large diameter further helps with peak flow capacity. This
piping setup has proven itself to work great on our GEN2 MS3 FMIC
kit, and has been pushed to 684WHP on Barett’s GEN1 (he modified the GEN2 piping to fit his GEN1).
There was painstaking care taken
to ensure the kit is as easy as possible to fit on your MS6. The hot pipe has a
lot more freedom for intake fitments than our previous kit and we made sure all
the CS intakes fit like a glove. Other aftermarket intakes have not been test
fit but check out the images, they will give you a good idea if your SRI will
fit or not. All the piping is mandrel bent and comes in a polished finish, so
it is ready to install right out of the box and look and perform great!
Keeping everything together is the
custom designed silicone couplers. You may notice that some of the silicone
sections are longer than a typical silicone coupler. This is to ensure the best
fitment as some shapes can simply not be made easily in a piece of pipe.
As with most CS silicone
components, each coupler uses 4-plys of nylon reinforcement braiding and 5
layers of silicone. This is typically very good at resisting expansion under
high levels of boost; however, we wanted to really make sure the long couplers
of the MS6 kit do not expand. Any coupler longer than about 6” uses an extra
layer reinforcement made of metal wire. This further resists expansion under
boost, and even helps keep all the piping stable between mounting locations.
While the outside of the coupler may look bumpy, the insides are still very
smooth like a typical piece of silicone.
Each Mazdaspeed 6 intercooler kit
comes with everything you need for install. Stainless steel T-bolt clamps are
included for each connection to ensure secure, leak free joints. The
intercooler mounting bracket, hardware, and full color install instructions are
also included so you know you can get the job done right.
We’re happy to finally have this out and are excited to see you all get your hands on them. Be sure to drop any questions you may have below and check out the product listing for more images!
CorkSport Mazdaspeed 6 Front Mount Intercooler March 26th, 2020CorkSport
We are working on our blog, We will get you the best Mazda content back up shortly