I am writing this exciting blog because the Mazda SkyActiv-G is getting some CorkSport TURBO LOVE.
Quick note, this kit is releasing in April 2022, take a look at the several videos #1#2#3 we have posted up on the kit.
Since 2013 and the loss of the Mazdaspeed 3, Mazda has really left a lot to be desired as far as power goes for its line-up. Don’t get me wrong, we love Mazda here at CorkSport; the interiors and exteriors are on point, they get great gas mileage, and are exciting to drive. We will always continue pushing and developing the platform that Mazda is kicking out, but let’s be real…we love power too much to let this one slide.
I’ll admit, we thought long and hard about moving forward with such a large turbo kit for the Mazda 3 and 6. We hoped, we wished, and we dreamed that Mazda would eventually wise up and kick out a GEN3 Mazdaspeed, and we got really excited when we heard about the CX-9 Turbocharged 2.5L engine. Unfortunately, Mazda chose not to go down that path. Once we found out for sure, we decided it was time to pull the trigger on the GEN3 Mazda 3 & 6 Turbo Kit.
Moving forward on a project of this size was not a trivial decision. There were many aspects to consider:
Do we make a complete kit or just design and manufacture difficult components?
What is the right power level to shoot for?
How will the engine and drivetrain hold up to the increased stress of forced induction?
How do we properly tune the engine?
These are all important aspects we had to consider.
The Choices We Made
The most difficult and time-intensive aspect of the kit is designing the physical components that will make up the kit… the entire kit. And yes, we decided that a 100% complete kit was the only way to make this a great setup, so that exactly what we intend to provide.
A complete kit needs to include everything from the air filter to the downpipe, and everything in-between. This includes the intake system, turbocharger, intercooler piping, intercooler, exhaust manifold, downpipe, and all the necessary silicone couplers, hardware, and wiring extensions.
This will be the most complete turbo kit you can purchase for the 2.5L SkyActiv-G powertrain.
CAD Designed Turbo Kit Mock-Up
Right behind developing all the components for the kit comes the tuning. We are working with Versatune to develop the software to control the 2.5L Sky-G engine with forced induction. This portion of the project will be kicked into high gear in the near future once all functional prototypes are on our test car and strapped to the dyno.
The Things We Don’t Know
We’ve got a long way to go with this project, and there are still some uncertainties we will have to address when we get there. We will need to find out if the engine can take the added power, and how much until it goes zoom-zoom-boom!
Time will tell on these questions, but we do have some stuff in the works that will help. While I’m just spit-balling here, something around 280-300whp would be a lot of fun in the Mazda 3 and Mazda 6. Make sure to stay tuned as this project evolves through testing and development in the coming months. I have only skimmed the surface of this project and I could easily write pages and pages if time allowed.
What are your thoughts on this new project? Questions? Leave them in the comments section, we would love to hear from you.
-Barett @ CS
Turbo Kit in Development for 2014+ Mazda 3 & 2013+ Mazda 6 April 1st, 2022CorkSport
For the past few months, Mazda has been hinting at the homogeneous charge compression ignition (HCCI) motors, but the idea goes back to 2008 when Mazda started working on their Skyactiv technology and brand. The original plan was laid out to introduce the Skyactiv I technology, and then offer a Skyactiv II phase in the future, which was to be the next step up in efficiency and performance.
Recently, Mazda officially announced the Skyactiv X after Robert Davis gave a speech announcing there is more to be given from internal combustion engine (ICE). This has been Mazda’s plan all along and they are sticking to it.
So where does the Mazdaspeed by another name come into this conversation, you ask? Mazda needs to meet its corporate goals of improving fuel economy while also ensuring performance. Right now, Mazda has the 2.5 turbo motor used in the CX9 and the 2.2 turbo diesel motors as the go-to for horsepower.
I found three references where the term “supercharged” has been discussed with the new Skyactiv X engines. The term has been used in the past for both belt-driven blowers and exhaust-driven blowers. Give Mazda’s familiarity with the turbo motors on the Skyactiv technology, my money is already on the turbocharger for gas engines.
In the past, Mazda has said the new motors will be used across all the models, which means that, yes, we should see a turbocharged Mazda 3 and Mazda 6 again in the future. I know the Mazdaspeed name and Mazdaspeed 3 and Mazdaspeed 6 models are dead, but we will once again be able to play with boost in our favorite manufacturer’s cars.
Cheers,
Derrick @ CS
Mazdaspeed by Another Name September 13th, 2018CorkSport
A recently submitted patent popped up from Mazda, which gives all of us boost lovers a serious case of envy; a motor with 2 turbochargers and a supercharger. Text from the patent reads, “The supercharging device according to the embodiment schematic includes first and second exhaust turbochargers 11 and 15 to be driven by exhaust energy of the engine 1, an electric supercharger 18 to be driven by electrical energy, and intercooler 16 which cools intake air discharged from the first and second exhaust turbochargers 11 and 15 and from the electric supercharger 18, and an intake manifold 10 which communicates between the downstream end of the intercooler 16 in the intake air flow direction and the intake ports 3 of the engine 1.”
This sounds like a party to me and looking at the pictures and further in the text, this motor is designed to be in a rear wheel drive car. Currently the only rear wheel drive model Mazda offers is the Mx5/Miata. Could we be seeing a future Mazdaspeed hotrod in the making?
Knowing that the Mazdaspeed name is dead, if this new motor comes to life, it would be under the Skyactiv X name and could explain where the future of the Mazdaspeed name was headed. Mazda says “driving matters” and with the boundaries they are pushing with the internal combustion engine in development, this could be another forward-looking motor to make the retired Mazdaspeed name proud.
Mazda Shows Us Some Forced Induction Fun September 13th, 2018CorkSport
Always street tune with a buddy for safety. (PC: renson_ms3)
Everyone was a beginner at some point. Whether you’re new to Mazda modding or you’ve been doing it since you first got behind the wheel, you’re bound to run into some terminology that goes over your head.
At Corksport, our customers are family, and we love learning from and educating our family when it comes to Mazdas. The more you know about your Mazda, the better it can be. This terminology cheat sheet of Mazda language will help you talk the talk as you work to reach your modding goals.
Mazda terminology you need to talk the talk
Axle Back Exhaust: An axle back exhaust starts from the area of the rear axle and extends to the rear bumper. An axle back exhaust replaces the muffler, tips, and a portion of piping that connects to the mid pipes. It has the least effect on performance and fuel economy of all exhaust mods.
Built Block: A built block is a term used when the engine internals are upgraded with higher performance variants over OEM. In most common cases a built block is referred when both the connecting rods and pistons have been upgraded for more strength.
Camber Kit: A camber kit usually consists of a rear camber arm and front camber plates. In addition to correcting wheel alignment on lowered vehicles, a camber kit provides camber adjustment for tracked vehicles which require a slightly negative camber. Correcting the camber is important for even tire wear and maximum traction.Learn more about Camber.
Cat Back Exhaust: A cat-back exhaust begins at the end of your catalytic converter and goes all the way back to your rear bumper. It is made up of a rear-pipe, resonator, and muffler. A cat-back exhaust system can provide more power, increase fuel efficiency, and deliver distinct sound.
Mazda MX-5 with cat back exhaust. (PC: jdm.chris
Cold Air Intake: A cold air intake essentially lets your engine breathe. Cold air intakes move the air filter outside of the engine compartment so cooler air can be sucked into the engine for combustion. Cooler air brings more oxygen into the combustion chamber and that means more power.
Dyno Tune: Dyno tuning is a systematic approach to engine tuning, allowing a high-quality precise tune-up. During a dyno tune, the vehicle is stationary in a controlled environment.
Front Mount Intercooler: A front mount intercooler cools the charge air from a turbo or supercharged car. Mounted on the front of a vehicle, this intercooler results in better airflow and a higher cooling efficiency. Hot air enters one side and cool air exits the other.
Kyle Sousa’s Mazdaspeed3. (PC: Kyle Sousa)
Lowering Springs: Lowering springs improve the appearance and handling of a vehicle. By lowering the center of gravity on the car and winding the coils closer together, a lowering spring can make the car feel more connected to the road for better cornering. Lowering springs will also give a more aggressive-looking stance and reduce the vehicle’s fenderwell gap.
Mod: Mod is short for modification. Mods are usually performed to enhance the performance and appearance of a vehicle.
Oversteer: Oversteer happens when the rear tires reach their limit before the front tires while cornering, leading to the tail opening up.
Powertrain Control Module: A powertrain control module, commonly called a PCM, is the onboard computer of a car. Essentially the brains of the engine control system, it controls many components of a vehicle and is used for diagnostics.
Short Ram Intake: A short ram intake, also referred to as an SRI, is a mod for internal combustion engines. It consists of a short metal or silicone pipe and a conical air filter inside the engine bay. A short ram intake increases power by eliminating the resonator and filter box, giving the air a shorter travel distance.
Short Shifter: A short shifter changes the geometry of the shifter so the distance of the shift lever is reduced. It moves the pivot point higher up the shift rod causing you to move the shifter less distance, with a shorter throw, transforming the driving experience. Street Tune: Just as it sounds, a street tune or road tune happens on the street. It should be done to maintain the driveability of the system after the top end has been addressed on the dyno.
Sway Bars: A sway bar, also called a roll bar, anti-sway bar, or stabilizer bar, is a part of the suspension that helps reduce the body roll of a vehicle during fast cornering or when driving over uneven road. It connects opposite wheels together through short lever arms linked by a torsion spring.
Understeer: Understeer is when traction is lost at the front wheels while cornering, forcing you wide on a bend despite applying the correct steering angle. If your car is understeering, your speed is not at its maximum and you’re missing the line.
Want to add to our lingo list? Hit us up on Facebook or Instagram and let’s hear it!
Beginner’s Dictionary to Mazda Mods August 15th, 2023CorkSport
If you have a Mazdaspeed, then you have probably heard about cleaning your valves a time or two. You may be asking yourself, why is it that I need to do this? What is it good for? Or why do my valves get dirty in the first place? I’ll be covering all of that in this blog post today, along with full instructions on how to perform the job.
Why do my valves get dirty?
They get dirty because our engines are Direct Injected. This means that the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber, rather than in the ports. This also means that there is no fuel passing over your intake valves, and those nice detergents in the gas that are advertised don’t do anything for you.
An example of direct injection.
That being said, Carbon from the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system and oil from the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) have free reign to cake your valves.
The figure above is an example of a dirty valve after approx. 80k Miles with no EGR delete or OCC.
Why do I need to do it?
If enough time passes without any preventative treatment, the valves eventually can get so caked with carbon, that it can start interfering with proper airflow, combustion, and even the valve’s ability to shut all the way. Intermittent misfires, knocks, poor fuel economy, and loss of HP are all symptoms that can occur.
What products do I need?
Before you get into this list – be sure to check out the CorkSport Valve Cleaning tool released after we published this blog!
I’m glad you finally asked that! Go ahead and get ready to start jotting down some notes on the things you will need! Most of these can be found locally. *You will need a Shop-Vac, and an Air Compressor.
1. Media Blaster – This is just a gravity-fed gun with a hopper. Powered by compressed air. As you squeeze the trigger, the media falls in and goes out of the blaster. You can open and shut the media valve in order to Switch between media and air only.
2. Media – You will want to pick up some of the 24 Grit Walnut. Do not get the 12 Grit as this is too large, and you will continue to jam up your gun where the media falls from the hopper into the barrel. The 24 will have “Fine” In the top right corner.
3. Long Picks – You won’t want to start blasting right off the bat. You will want to soak the valves for a little bit and get in there with some long picks to really start softening up that initially built layer. You order the picks online and these are a lot easier to use than the little scribes at Harbor Freight which have always felt too short to me.
Link: Purchase Long Picks
4. Carb Clean – Over the years people testing different chemicals. The one still in the lead is B-12 Chemtool. You’ll use this to soak the valves and let them soften up the carbon. Be sure you get the sprayable can.
*You must also have all the normal tools required to remove your intake manifold.
Blue painters tape
Big garbage bag or plastic tarp
Long hose to attach to the end of the blaster to be routed through the Shop Vac
Funnel
Toothbrush
Brake clean
Shop towels
The process!
1. Disassembly: The goal here is to get your Intake manifold off. This consists of removing the TMIC, (If you have it) your harness, and vacuum lines. A well-written write-up on MSF to remove your intake manifold can be found here if you have not yet done this!
2. Mask off the Engine Bay: In order to prevent walnut from getting everywhere, a proper prep job is very important. Clean the face of the head, and around the runners well. They will be oily and blue tape will not stick well unless it’s clean!Cut two trash bags so that they lay flat, and stick the tape to them. End result should be like this! *Note that cylinder #2 is open and has been taped off.
3. Soak Your Valves: This is where the process actually starts! Spray down the valve with the B-12 Chemtool until all the build-up is covered. Let It sit for about 30-40 minutes. It may seem like a bit of time, but it does really help to make the process much easier.
4. Start Scraping: This is where your long picks will start to come in handy. With the carb clean still soaking on the valve, use the slightly angled pick to begin the process of removing the buildup. Once you think you have scraped enough off, use the air gun and the Shop-Vac to remove the fluid. Route the hose from the blaster through the vacuum hose as so: The air will blow out whatever is in there, and the vacuum will cleanly evacuate it from the runner.
5. Start Blasting:Fill up the blaster with a little funnel. Try to keep it over the box because this stuff likes to go everywhere. Once you have it filled you can proceed to the blasting. Start on the first runner of your choice. Make sure that the hose from the blaster sticks out enough to go a decent distance into the runner. Open the valve on the blaster with the switch on the side, and pull the trigger. Pulse it every couple of seconds, as this allows time for the walnut to drain out, and gives your compressor time to keep up!
As you blast it, the compressed air forces it into the runner and then gets blown back into the suction of the vacuum. You will need to go back and forth between blasting and picking, as you run into stubborn bits that are giving you a hard time. You will need to go back and forth between blasting and picking, as you run into stubborn bits that are giving you a hard time.
6. Rinse and Scrub the Runners: Now you use the brake clean and a toothbrush. The runners by now will be coated in dust and some residue. Use the straw on the brake clean and thoroughly hit the runners. Use an old toothbrush or equivalent to scrub it. You may need to repeat this a couple of times in order to get it nice and clean. Suck out the fluid with the Shop-Vac and air gun as you did in step #4. Your final result will definitely blow your mind! *Take extra time to ensure that you have no media left in the runners. Blow it out thoroughly.
7. Repeat for the valve that was taped off: Now that you have completed the ones that were shut, you need to tape those off, and unmask the runner that has the valves open. The easiest way to do this is to rotate the engine by hand. The Crank Pulley is a 21mm Bolt. Simply turn the engine to the right a little bit until the valves fully shut. Having a spotter tell you “when” is the easiest way. If the Buildup makes it hard to tell, then you can put a long screwdriver, or extension in the spark plug hole and watch it reach its peak at TDC. This will ensure the valves are fully shut. Soak the valve, scrape, and blast, just like the previous valve.
8. Time to clean up: Remove your masking, and try to channel all the walnut into one area. Wad it all up and toss it. Keep the tape on the cylinder head until you are ready to install the manifold. Used some compressed air to clean off anything that may have gotten media where it doesn’t belong.Reassemble, and start it up! Check for vacuum leaks or loose clamps. Watch your fuel trims and AFRs on your AP (if you have one) to make sure everything is normal.
Hope this will help you guys on your valve cleaning ventures, and you can always give us a call at 360-260-2675 if you get stuck! Connect with us
