Enjoying your 4th GEN Mazda 3 but wanting to change up the look? Introducing the CorkSport Performance Spoiler for 2019+ Mazda 3 Hatchback. We went for an OEM+ design that incorporates the great fitment and lines of the OEM aero kit spoiler but in a much more aggressive package. Taller, longer, and with an upturned rear edge, the CS spoiler add some much needed sportiness to the look of your 3. Available in multiple finishes to suit your budget and build, the CS spoiler is a great next mod for your build! Read on for more details and check out the product listing here to purchase.
We like the OEM spoiler but were disappointed at how insignificant it looks when installed, especially when paired with the fairly aggressive OEM front lip & rest of the aero kit. The CorkSport Spoiler takes design cues from the OEM aero kit spoiler however, the design is unique to CorkSport. We started from scratch and polled the community for design opinions before settling on a final design that is both higher off of the rear hatch than OEM and extends further rearward than OEM. The design is finished off with an upturned rear edge for a great “duckbill” style look which is aggressive without being too much. You’ll be turning heads, especially when paired with CorkSport Lowering Springs and a nice set of wheels!
Fitment was equally important as aesthetics when we designed the CS spoiler. We 3D scanned an OEM aero kit wing to get the exact mounting surfaces and edge profiles so that the CS version fits just as good as OEM. We use the same mounting locations as OEM as well. This means no drilling if you’re switching from OEM aero kit to CorkSport spoiler. If you do not have the OEM spoiler you do have to do some drilling, however, Mazda pre-marks the holes for a relatively easy install! By using the same mounting locations and more adhesive mounting tape than OEM, you can be sure your CorkSport spoiler won’t be going anywhere!
The CorkSport Mazda 3 spoiler is offered in three finishes so you can choose what is best for your build. Each option uses a fiberglass base with different top layers. Regular woven carbon fiber, forged carbon fiber, and basic black fiberglass are each available. The carbon fiber options feature a UV resistant epoxy top coat for great protection from the elements and a mirror like finish. The full fiberglass option comes in a satin black coat with some light scratches and will require some finishing. We recommend some finish sanding and a final layer of paint or wrap. The shape is the same for each unit however the purchase price varies so you can really choose the best option for your build & budget.
Finally, each CorkSport spoiler comes with all the hardware and accessories needed for installation. This includes mounting bolts, washers, mounting tape, and rubber washers for waterproofing. We even include new replacement OEM Mazda clips that almost always break with removing the upper trim panel on the hatch! All of this comes with full color install instructions and great customer service & support!
So if you’re ready to take your GEN4 build to the next level, check out the CorkSport Performance Spoiler for 2019+ Mazda3. We think it’s what the OEM spoiler should’ve been and you will not be disappointed! Don’t be shy to contact us with any questions!
Have you been waiting for the CorkSport Heat Shield to go along with a CS SRI to snag one? Well you don’t have to wait any longer because the CS heat shield is here! Whether you have the CS SRI already or want to get both at the same time, the CorkSport Heat Shield for both the Mazda 3 and CX-30 with the SkyActiv 2.5T is a great mod to include in your build. Keep on reading to see how the CS Heat Shield is able to achieve lower intake air temps that allow your motor to make power easier.
For the Mazda 3 Turbo Heat Shield our main focus was keeping cool air supplied to the filter. The shield was designed to seal off the intake from as much heat produced from the radiator, engine and transmission as possible. This lead to a multiple piece design that is riveted together which allows us to utilize the OEM air ducting which supplies cooler outside air to the filter. The shield does not fully surround the filter because we have also found that there is cool air that also comes from the area in front of the tire and underneath the headlight while driving, helping to ensure that your intake sees as much cool fresh air as possible.
Now with all of this cooler air being supplied, how does it help performance? The basic concept is that since cold air is denser than warm air, your engine gets more air per cycle, and thus allows more fuel to be added to make more power. However, when a car is turbocharged, the process is a little more complicated. A turbo compresses and heats up your intake air and then sends it to an intercooler that cools the air back down. What that means is that the “colder air will make more power” generalization may not be as significant, especially with the advancements in modern turbocharged vehicles. Colder intake air does offer a benefit in the form of less stress on your turbo system. This means that your turbo does not have to work as hard to flow the same amount of air at the same boost pressure. Also a reduction in intake air temps can translate to slightly cooler air exiting your turbo compressor, which helps take some stress off the intercooler as well.
With all of the theory covered, let’s get to the real world results! In daily driving testing we found decreased intake air temps with the CorkSport Heatshield installed. When cruising or when it’s cold outside, we were actually surprised at the low intake temps of the CS SRI alone—there’s actually a surprising amount of fresh air that gets into the engine bay. Where the heatshield really comes into its own is when sitting stationary or driving on a very hot day. That’s when we saw our biggest improvements in intake air temp.
Lastly about the manufacturing, the CorkSport Heat Shield is made out of carbon steel that is laser cut and precision formed. Carbon steel was selected for its strength and lower heat transfer over aluminum. To fight off corrosion, the heatshield is powder coated wrinkle black and gives the heat shield a great look that helps it blend in with the other parts in the engine bay. Both sections of the shield are attached together using stainless steel rivets for corrosion resistance and a nice look. Lastly, we include rubber seals along the top edge of the CS Heat Shield to keep as much heat out as possible, and to prevent any unwanted vibrations or noise.
If you’re looking to complement your CS SRI with some added heat protection or want to pick them up together, check out the product listing for the CorkSport Heat Shield for additional photos and video! Also, feel free to contact us with any questions you might have.
2021-up Mazda 3 Turbo and CX30 Turbo Intake Heat Shield April 6th, 2022CorkSport
Its 2021, you survived 2020 and finally got those last goodies installed on your Mazdaspeed 3…you’re finally fully bolted. It’s been about 6 months and now you want more, but your Tuner keeps telling you you are out of fuel. What the Hell does that mean!?
Let me tell what that means and let me show you the solution via the BEST Port Injection Fuel Kit for your Mazdaspeed 3 or MPS 3. If you know this is the kit for you don’t wait any longer (Link to ALL THE FUEL), but I do invite you to check out the great information below.
Say no to “out of fuel” and say yes to enough fuel to support 750+WHP! But first let’s take a step back to understand the basics.
Why is your Mazdaspeed 3 “out of fuel”?
The Mazdaspeed 3 and 6 use early technology for direct injection injectors which sadly do not have an aftermarket replacement and reach their flow capacity limit quickly. This basically puts a limit on the OEM fuel systems horsepower capacity. From what we have seen firsthand and in the community; the limit is around 360-390whp depending on the performance parts on the engine and the fuel used. The only current solution is to add a port injection system with either 2 extra or 4 extra injectors. We’ll talk more about that.
What is an auxiliary port injection fuel system? – This is a kit that adds (does not replace) port style fuel injectors to the intake manifold so that you can increase the total fueling capacity of your Mazdaspeed or MPS. There are a few ways this can be done and all have been done in the Mazdaspeed Community.
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2 extra or 4 extra injectors (aka 6th Port or 8th Port Injection)
While the CorkSport Port Injection Fuel Kit is designed for 4 extra injectors (8th Port Kit); there are options in the community that only use 2 extra injectors (6th Port Kit). CorkSport believes the 8th Port Injection kit is the superior setup because it has higher capacity, is more reliable and safer for the engine.
With an 8th Port Kit there is an extra injector on each runner of the intake manifold spraying directly into that one and only runner. With a 6th Port Kit there are two extra injectors spraying directly ahead of the throttle body and then depending on the flow distribution of the intake manifold to disperse the fuel to each runner and thus cylinder.
Return vs Returnless Setups
This is another option for Port Injection Fuel Kits in the community. While both have their place, the CorkSport 8th Port Fuel Kit uses a “return” style setup because again it has higher capacity, is more reliable and safer for the engine because it is easier to tune for.
In a “return” style setup the fuel pressure for the extra injectors increase as boost pressure increases keeping a consistent fuel flow rate per injector duty cycle which provides the higher capacity and much more consistent tuning. While the “returnless” style setup just plumbs the extra injectors into the OEM fuel feed to the HPFP. The fuel pressure does not increase with boost pressure and therefore the capacity is lower, around 500-550WHP.
Integrated vs Standalone Fuel System
Lastly is the consideration of how the Port Injection Injectors are fueled. This can come from the OEM fuel tank or from a completely separate fuel tank in the vehicle. Unlike the bullets points above, this is not really a “one is better than the other”, but more of “what suits the needs of your vehicle and uses”.
As the name implies this means the Port Injection Fuel Kit sources its fuel from the OEM tank and in-tank pump. This can actually be done a couple ways 1) via the “returnless” setup as mentioned above but that has its issues or 2) via a surge tank that is mounted in the engine bay or cabin…which has some concerns.
The surge tank setup is a very common “racecar” setup and for good reason. It handles high G load corning, acceleration, and braking great and also fuels the entire car, not just the port injection system. However the cost is usually much higher and requires relocation of other engine bay components so you can mount the surge tank. Along with that you can only use one fuel for the entire system so if your car needs a special high octane fuel then you have to use it at all times during operation, whether cruising or full power.
In contrary this is a completely separate fuel source via a separate tank. This can be a really great option for the enthusiast that does some spirited driving, maybe some events here and there, but also daily drives their Mazdaspeed 3. How is this the case?
With a completely separate fuel cell for the port injection system you can run the exotic race gas/ethanol in the port injection tank and run normal cheap pump gas in the OEM tank. When you daily drive/cruise you only use the pump gas in the OEM tank and when you want power the port injection kicks in with the high octane fuel. It’s a win/win, especially if you do not have ethanol close by and have to special order the exotic fuel like we do here in the PNW. However this does mean you need a 2nd fuel tank for the port injection which can be a pain, BUT CorkSport has that covered in this complete kit.
Ok let’s recap on where the CorkSport Port Injection Kit for Mazdaspeed 3 fits in:
4 Extra Injectors aka 8th Port Fuel Injection Kit – one injector per runner for more precise fueling
Return Style Setup – Fuel pressure rising with boost pressure for more capacity and precision
Standalone Tank – Cheap pump gas for daily driving and high octane fuel for port injection power in the secondary fuel cell
I don’t know about you, but this sounds like you can have your cake and eat it to!
Image Credit: Shift Sector Coalinga 2020
Let’s look at the components that make up the CorkSport Port Injection Fuel Kit. What’s in the Box:
CorkSport Fender Mounted Fuel Cell
This is a huge element of what makes the CorkSport Port Injection Fuel Kit great. This fuel cell is custom CAD designed specifically for your GEN1 and GEN2 Mazdaspeed 3 to fit hidden under the headlight behind the bumper cover. At 2.6 gallons capacity you don’t need to refill the fuel cell often and there is an integrated level sensor to remind you when you are at 0.8 gallons. No in-cab tanks and smells.
Quantum Fuel Pump
A 380LPH inline fuel pump is used. This is a Bosch 044 style pump that has the flow capacity needed and is e85 safe.
DeatschWerks Fuel Filters
Two fuel filters are used in the system for complete filtration. A pre-pump 100 micron filter filters the fuel flowing from the tank to the pump, therefore protection the pump from debris. A post-pump 10 micron filter filters the fuel even more before entering the fuel injectors, therefore protecting the fuel injectors from very small particulates. Both filters use a dual stage filtration design that incorporates a magnet and a stainless steel mesh media.
Spec’d Length 6AN Fuel Lines
No headaches and ready to go! Like our Mazdaspeed high pressure fuel line, the included fuel lines are the CorkSport Fuel Lines are spec’d to length and fully assembled ready to use. The lines are PTFE lined with stainless steel braiding and a hytrel coating for a sleek finish and protection against abrasion. All fittings minus on 150deg fitting are permanently crimped and sealed.
Fuel Pressure Regulator
An AEM fuel pressure regulator is used for this return style setup. This provides easy adjustment and setup of the fuel rail pressure with the included Fuel Lab Analog Pressure Gauge
Too further simplify, a 30amp relay kit is provided. Relays are a critical component in setting up a port injection fuel system. This allows you to safely and reliably provide power and control to the fuel pump. With that a Hobbs Switch is also provided, this acts as a trigger for the relay to apply power to the fuel pump when a set boost pressure is met. Example: when you reach 4psi the Hobbs Switch will signal the relay to apply power to the fuel pump. This is a great setup for daily driven cars because you only turn on the pump when needed vs running at all times. It greatly helps the life of your pump.
Lastly is all the misc hardware and brackets to get this into your speed. We’ve got this handled and clearly show the install process with the online color step-by-step instructions.
Alright that’s what’s in the box for the CorkSport Port Injection Kit; now let’s talk about the other required items. There are 2-3 critical items needed to get your port injection kit up and running.
Port Injection Controller
The OEM ECU and Cobb/Versatuner tuning options cannot control the extra 4x injectors in the kit so you will need a separate controller and software for this. There is a simple and proven option with the Split Second Additional Injector Controller AIC1. It comes with a ready to run harness for EV6 injectors and the harness integration for power, signal and control are very simple. Check it out here and add it to your CorkSport Port Injection Kit for a one stop shop.
You will need 4x injectors for the CorkSport 8th Port Fuel Kit. The injectors need to have 14mm o-rings top and bottom and the length of 34mm or 48mm (if using the CorkSport intake manifold). To use with the Split Second Additional Injector Controller AIC1; you will want the EV6 connection style. For capacity we recommend at least 1000cc/mm. To cover all these requirements just use the Injector Dynamics ID1050x. They are proven and reliable, you can grab a set right here with the CorkSport Port Injection Kit.
While this is not required for operation, it is highly recommended. The N2MB Racing WOT Box allows you to change the type of Redline and Launch Control cut to a safer method. OEM will deactivate the injectors for this vs the WOT Box deactivates the spark plugs. This is much safer for your engine, especially with running a port injection fuel kit. With this you can also Flat Foot Shift which is faster and way too much fun. (Insert Fireball Emoji Here)
Why doesn’t the CorkSport Port Injection Fuel Kit include these items?
That’s a good question and we have a good reason. Originally the kit was going to, but we asked the community how they would want the kit and the answers surprised us. A lot of people wanted the kit minus the Controller and the Injectors because they already had those items. So we pulled those out of the kit as solo items you can choose to add if needed.
Installing this kit into your Mazdaspeed 3 is a day project with some buddies. Bank on 6+ hours due to the wiring (its always tedious, but important to do right). Read the installation instructions before starting the install so you are ready with all the needed tools and supplies for wiring.
I do want to note that like any project that involves wiring, there will be some wiring required for the install and the extra wiring and connection you decide you need are not included in the CorkSport kit. Every car is different and how each person wants to get things wired up is different. There is also some very minimal drilling required to install the tank mounting brackets.
I hope you found this blog helpful and informative not just to learn about the CorkSport Port Injection Fuel Kit, but to also learn about the other setups and options you can choose from. I hope this helps you decide what is best for your car and goals. Give us a call if you have any questions, we’d be happy to help.
Barett @ CS
Mazdaspeed 3 Port Injection Fuel Kit November 15th, 2022CorkSport
Stickers are worth 5hp right?…So it was only logical to wrap the whole car in a GIANT sticker! Anyways, on a real note we knew that the @Halfmilespeed3 couldn’t just be fast, it had to look good and what Car Guy or Gal doesn’t want their car to look good?
We have a plan at CorkSport to wrap all of our R&D Shop Cars with an awesome blue that aligns with our “CorkSport Blue”, but we want each car to have a little unique character to it. Thinking about the halfmilespeed3 build and goal we had the brilliant idea of a split wrap…seems fitting right? Half and Half…
So what did the car look like before the wrap?
Metro Grey Mica is the color name and its pretty bland in my opinion. I added the white roof and hood accents along with white wheels to help brighten up the car, which it did, but it was time for change. Oh yeah; white wheels and track spec brake pads don’t mix, just an FYI.
So what is like to get your car wrapped? What’s the process? I can’t personally give you details as I did not do the wrap myself, but I was close to the action and watched it all come together. Respect to those that take this on themselves and to the professionals out there. It is a tedious process that requires attention to detail to get a great final result.
A local friend is a professional and was open to doing the work in the CS shop since the Speed was not in a running and driving state at the time.
Saul S. (@saulywood) did the work over a few weeks’ time in evenings and weekends. He kicked a** on a project that turned out to be a bit more difficult than expected.
Installing a wrap is a process of pulling, stretching, heating, cutting…lots of different skills and abilities to get the job done. All this has to happen without damaging the vehicle you are wrapping. It’s quite a feat.
Going through the process the build kind of evolved if you will. Luckily Saul was very open-minded to it and even a bit eager to try some new things.
Probably my favorite aspect of the wrap is the unique and new wrap from 3M. Called “Shadow Black” this wrap has a slight texture to it that depicts patterns sort of like camouflage.
We used this on the roof and in a narrow strip over the seam between Satin Black and Blue Gloss; it really added a unique aspect to the look and style and brought the two colors together. Pictures just do not give it justice nor can you feel the texture.
So let’s wrap this up (see what I did there?) with some finished images.
I have to admit I’ve fallen in love with my car again. The exterior of my car was pretty beat up and neglected with rock chips, scuffs, and just generally not well taken care of paint. With the new wrap there is a whole new rush of pride and enthusiasm to keep it looking amazing.
Lastly, and this is bit cheesy, I requested Saul to match my helmet to the car…
Why not right? It’s not just another black helmet and I love it.
With that I hope you enjoyed this sneak peek into wrapping a Mazdaspeed. Stay connected as we share more and more about the @halfmilespeed3 build…engine, seats, roll-cage, and power! At some point this season an event will open and we can actually race!
-Barett @ CS
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Vinyl Wrap With a Split Personality November 1st, 2022CorkSport
Safety first right? As much as I want to survive an unfortunate incident while racing my 650+whp Mazdaspeed3…I have a bone to pick with safety. Sometimes it’s a real pain in the A**.
Let me explain…and hopefully help you learn from my experience.
Today we are talking about how to paint a roll cage, specifically one that has been custom built to fit tightly inside the cab of a GEN1 Mazdaspeed 3. How does this relate to safety? Well…a cage is made from raw steel in “mild” or “chromoly” materials. Both of these metals will corrode/rust over time. Not only will this result in a very ugly cage inside your car, but it could eventually affect the structural integrity of the roll cage, and that would defeat the whole purpose of it.
With that I decided to paint the roll cage in my Mazdaspeed 3. I daily drive and race the car AND I live in the PNW which has lots of rain and moisture. In fact, in the couple weeks that I did drive the car with the raw cage, I was already getting surface rust build up…gross.
To add to the difficulty, the cage in my Mazdaspeed was custom built from scratch vs a kit so it was very tight fitting and I have extra “X-bracing” added for increased roll over protection. This just added to the amount of surface area to paint and the number of locations with bars very close to each other.
The roll cage/hoop in my #halfmilespeed3 is technically a 8-point cage with an added X-brace in the main hoop and between the rear strut braces. The X-bracing is what helps with high speed roll over protection, but with a weight penalty. Go look at any modern rally car and you’ll see X-bracing plus lots more.
Ok, time to get our hands dirty. Here are the major items you will need to paint your cage:
Paint – I used a rust-oleum paint & Primer Combo. Make sure it works with a metal surface. 2-3 cans will be needed to complete the job and I’d suggest a high gloss enamel finish. It will be much easier to clean.
Safety Equipment – Goggles, Face Mask (a real one with a rating for fine dust), Bunny Suit (because you will get paint ALL over you), Gloves
Scotch Brite Pads – You will need this so you can remove any rust build up (assuming it is minor, if you have a heavily rusting and rough cage then you will need to get far more aggressive)
Cleaner and Rags – Gotta clean the cage after the scotch brite process
Plastic Wrap – This is like industrial size cling wrap. Easily found at Home Depot or other hardware shops in the painting isle.
Blue Tape – A few rolls of the 1.5” will do.
Step 1: Remove everything you can from the interior (which may not actually be much if you have a cage. Take your seats out, carpet (what’s left), center console, …etc
When I had the cage installed I decided I wanted to keep the front two seats as factory as possible. With that I have kept my carpet, center console, dash, door cards, roof upholstery…other than the door bars from the cage, you would have no idea the car has a cage when sitting in the front seats.
Step 2: Scotch Brite Time! Grab a pad and start giving your cage a nice rub down. You need to go over all surfaces of the cage if you want good adhesion of the paint to the metal surface. Once done, do a quick check and I bet you find some missed spots. Get those also…
Step 3: Clean up time! Grab some clean rags and a cleaner that does not leave any residue. Clean all the cage surfaces to remove any dust and/or oil. This is equally as important for good paint adhesion.
Step 4: Time to seal up the car. My number one advice here is avoid wind if possible. This plastic sheet loves to blow away in the wind…it can be very frustrating. If you have a friend that can help, that would be a great idea.
You basically want to cover all exposed surfaces inside the car and a lot of the outside of the car. While you are spray painting, you will be creating a lot of overspray mist floating in the air. This will settle on all surfaces inside and out.
I completely wrapped my doors and door edges, inside and outside of the car a bit.
I completely covered my dash and shifter assembly.
For the roof upholstery I did not use the plastic wrap, I actually used a piece of cardboard to act like a shield. I held the cardboard with one hand, shielding the roof while I sprayed the upper sections of the cage. It was effective and much easier than plastic wrap for that area.
Step 5: Time to actually paint. First you need to get into your bunny suit, get your gloves on, your face mask and goggles. Be proud of how ridiculous you look!
Before you start spraying, make sure you are in a well ventilated area and do not have any other cars or items in close proximity; they will get paint on them.
Actually Painting: I would advise starting with the hard to reach arrears first. You are essentially painting inside a jungle gym so get to the hard to reach areas first so you don’t have to worry about touching wet paint later. I started in the center and top of the cage because I had to be in the car to do so. Then was able to get to the more outer parts of the cage while outside of the cage.
Applying the paint is a bit of an art. You want to apply smooth and consistent layers. Your hand is always moving side to side as you spray. Don’t point and shoot or you will get runs in the paint.
Do a first coat that mostly covers all the surface area, then let it tach up for about an hour or reference the instructions on the can. Then apply another coat of paint. Trust me you will find thin or missed spots.
Step 6: Get out of the bunny suit. Hahaha ya this can be a process
Anyways, I pushed my car back into the garage and let the paint cure overnight before removing the plastic wrap. I didn’t want to risk the plastic wrap touching/sticking to the fresh paint. You may not have that luxury and if you don’t I would at least give the paint a couple hours to cure before removing the plastic.
Other takeaways – this was an ALL DAY PROJECT. I thought I could get it done in half a day, but with the concerns about keeping the still installed interior looking good, I was extra cautious with the plastic wrap which added time. I also did not want to do this again later so I was extra detailed with the painting process. Checking for missed spots and thin areas after each coat.
However, the result was well worth the work and I have no regrets about painting the cage. I can now drive my car without worry of the cage getting ugly or losing strength due to corrosion. I highly recommend that you take the day or so to make this happen in your car.
I hope you enjoyed this blog and thank you for following along with the @halfmilespeed3. Stay connected (instagram, blog & “Built With Barett” video series) as we share more and more about the @halfmilespeed3 build…engine, seats, roll-cage, and power! Rolling into the Shift Sector 2021 season we will have more great content to share!
-Barett @ CS
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Mazdaspeed Roll Cage Painting, a Necessary Evil November 1st, 2022CorkSport