We are back with another product release for you CX-5 owners! Say hello to the CorkSport Aluminum Skid Plate for 2017+ Mazda CX-5. Using our tried and true 11 gauge aluminum construction and 2-piece design, the CS skid plate adds some much needed protection to the underside of your CX5. Whether you use your CX-5 for camping, extra snow protection, or as a slammed show car, the CorkSport skid tray is a perfect fit for your build along with our axle-back exhaust! Read on for full details!
The OEM splash shield does a good job at its intended purpose: to smooth the air under your car for efficiency and keep your engine bay components dry. Any impact from road debris, rocks, or even a pesky speed bump though can easily crack or tear off your plastic splash shield leaving you without any protection. The CorkSport Skid Plate replaces the easily broken OEM unit with a full aluminum skid tray that can take a beating. We’ve used and abused these skid trays at the track (and some off-track excursions…) on our Mazda 3’s over the years and they have proven themselves to be sturdy, even withstanding the stresses of the 25 hours of Thunderhill! The CS skid tray will offer better protection for your engine so you can be less worried about your CX-5 when you take it camping on rocky forest roads, up to the mountain through snow & ice, or slam it and take it to shows.
To offer the best experience possible for you all, we have carefully CAD designed the CX-5 skid plate to mount directly in place of the OEM splash shield. This means no drilling, cutting, trimming, or headaches during the hour or less install. We kept the OEM style 2-piece design for further easy installation plus, the bonus of adjustability for minor variation vehicle to vehicle and cheaper shipping! Finally, there is an oil access cover just like OEM that you can move out of the way to easily change your oil and filter.
Each CorkSport CX-5 skid tray is made from laser-cut and precision formed 5052 aluminum. This ensures a consistent product for each of you that will stand the test of time and the elements. Included with each kit is all the extra hardware needed for installation. This includes stainless steel button head bolts that fasten the skid tray to the vehicle. These provide great corrosion resistance and won’t snag as easily as a traditional hex head bolt. We also include Torx screws for the oil access cover. This style of screw prevents the head from stripping after repeated oil changes which are typical with a traditional Phillips head screw.
If you’re looking to add some protection to the underbody of your 2017+ CX-5, look no further than the CorkSport Aluminum Skid Tray! Be sure to check out the product listing for more images and don’t hesitate to call us with any questions.
CorkSport Aluminum Skid Plate for 2017+ Mazda CX-5 September 10th, 2020Sky
Love your new Mazda 3 but find yourself missing some excitement? Already have our Short Ram Intake and out Strut Tower Bar? CS has come to help. We are proud to announce the CorkSport Axle Back Exhaust for 2019+ Mazda 3 & CX-30! Add some much-needed volume to your 4th GEN and help the engine breathe while doing so. It’s a great balance of growl under hard acceleration, yet quiet while cruising, plus you get a nice visual boost to the back of your ride. Read on for full details, and be sure to check out the product video for sound clips! (Mazda3 pictured below is OE ride height. If you are looking for more low, check out our 4th Gen Mazda 3 Lowering Springs!)
The CorkSport ABE replaces the restrictive OEM muffler section with high flowing, mandrel bent 304 stainless steel piping and a pass-through resonator. This allows for a great sound that is just loud enough to make your backroads journey fun without ruining your daily commute. The tone is deep with some nice growl to it that you’ll love to hear. Due to the unique, offset inlet flange, we ended up going with the single asymmetrical resonator for the best tone combined with drone elimination. We tested multiple resonator combinations before determining the single long resonator was the best setup.
The sound was not our only focus, however. We’ve increased the piping diameter to minimize flow restrictions in the exhaust. The piping diameter was increased from the OEM of 50-55mm (depending on where you measure) to 63.5mm (2.50 inch). The OEM muffler section has a lot of twists, turns, and flow restriction to quiet down your Sky-G. The free flowing resonator eliminates this flow restriction, and when combined with the larger piping, lets the 2.5 breathe better.
The sound and performance also comes with a visual gain. Exhaust tips are increased in size up to 90mm to better fill in the bumper cutouts of the BP Mazda 3. Each tip is dual wall construction that uses a rotated slant cut design. This helps the tips follow the curve of the bumper just like the OEM tips. Each tip is finished off with a laser engraved CorkSport name badge for a nice detail.
The GEN4 Mazda 3 exhaust also allowed us to bring in a feature we have never had before: adjustable tip length. Each tip is attached using a slip fitting and exhaust band clamp to provide secure and exhaust-leak-free performance. This slip fitting gives you up to 10mm of length adjustment to really dial in the look you’re going for. That is not even the best part though! We are offering three different tip length options for you all to choose from: Hatchback, Hatchback w/Appearance Kit, Sedan, and CX-30.
The sedan tip option is the longest in order to fit the longer rear end of the sedan models. While not intended you could put these on a hatchback if you’re into the “blast pipe” look.
The Hatchback W/Appearance Kit tip option is the medium length tip. These are intended for hatchbacks equipped with Mazda’s factory Appearance Package and are also the optimal length for the CX-30. This offers an aggressive look to match the aggressive nature of the Mazda Aero Kit. These tips can also be used on a non-aero kit hatch, however, they would stick out too far for most people’s taste.
The Hatchback without the Aero Kit tip option is the shortest option and is intended for regular hatchbacks without the Mazda Aero Kit. You can also run these tips on hatches with the aero kit if you’re going for a more conservative look, but they tend to disappear in the bumper skirt.
As usual, each CorkSport 2019+ MZ3 axle-back exhaust is made entirely from polished 304 stainless steel for the best in appearance and corrosion resistance. Each joint is TIG welded for strength while the inlet flange is laser cut to ensure a perfect fit. Each exhaust comes with all hardware needed for install, including exhaust clamps for the tips. You also get full color installation instructions and support for any installation questions you may have.
We strongly encourage you to visit the product listing for more pictures and to check out the product video for sound and video clips. This exhaust is fantastic, especially for a daily driver. Let us know what you think, and share other 4th GEN parts you want to see!
Axle Back Exhaust for 2019+ Mazda 3 & CX-30! August 27th, 2020Sky
The 2019+ Mazda 3 handles surprisingly well, even with the new torsion beam rear suspension. If you’re looking for even better handling out of your GEN4 3, we are happy to help! Introducing the CorkSport Front Strut Tower Brace for 2019+ Mazda 3 Sedan & Hatch. Improve driver feedback, add stability, and improve your confidence through the twisties in as little as 15 minutes! As a bonus, it even offers a visual boost to your engine bay. Read on for full details and don’t hesitate to call us with any questions!
The CorkSport Strut Bar connects the front strut towers together to improve chassis stiffness. By connecting the left and right strut towers together, flex in the strut towers themselves is reduced during hard cornering. This helps the suspension better do its job. This is most easily noticed through better driver feedback, so it’s easier for a driver to know what the car is doing when in a corner. There is also added stability, especially at a higher speed. Both of these aspects combine to help with driver confidence so you can attack your favorite backroad.
In order to offer the biggest handling improvement, we chose the best balance of strength and weight. The center bar section is made out of 2024-T4 aluminum so we get plenty of strength but keep the weight down. The two end brackets are made from laser-cut carbon steel that is precision welded together for the utmost in strength to give a solid base for the lightweight center section.
You can’t have all functions with no form though! To give a classy visual boost to your engine bay, the center aluminum section is fully polished and finished off with a CorkSport name badge for a clean look. The end brackets are powder coated black for long-lasting corrosion resistance and a clean look that will match just about any engine bay.
To provide the best experience for you all we include full-color installation instructions and all the hardware needed for installation. The center section of the brace is attached to the end brackets with chrome-plated hardware for long lasting good looks and strength. Also included are new strut mounting nuts to ensure good thread engagement and a final shiny touch. This means a typically install only takes 15-30 minutes with minimal tools required!
If you’re looking for an easy first mod on your new 3 or are wanting something to compliment your new CorkSport lowering springs and Short Ram Intake, the CS Front Strut Bar is a great option. We’re excited to see what you all think of the new strut brace. Check out the product listing for more pictures and to purchase!
2019+ Mazda 3 – Front Strut Tower Bar is ready for action! August 13th, 2020Sky
We hit a great balance between a street and track setup so you can have plenty of fun whether your corner of choice is on a backroad or an autocross course and still be comfortable on the daily commute.
Along the same line as our MS3 kit, we diverged from the normal spring rates chosen for 3rd GEN coilover setups. We really wanted to strike a good middle point between a basic street coilover and a full race setup.
With that in mind, spring rate selection was critical to ensure a stiff enough setup for good track handling but soft enough for regular roads.
The final rates we ended up at were 7K linear front springs and 8K linear rear springs. We prefer linear springs so that the car will react the same no matter the corner or bumpiness of the road. This provides a ride that is stiffer than stock but is not harsh or uncomfortable. This is coupled with more neutral handling (less understeer) and a suspension natural frequency that is slightly higher in the rear than the front for added driver feedback and comfort.
To further add to the handling benefits, the CS coilovers have 15-way adjustable rebound damping in both the front and the rear. This allows you to tune your ride to exactly how you like it, whether you’re going for comfort or handling. It’s even easy to use one set up at the track and then soften things up for the ride home! The front also comes with adjustable camber plates for fine-tuning camber for handling or fitment.
Obviously, there’s one big component that we haven’t talked about yet: ride height! The CorkSport Coilovers offer approximately 2 inches of ride height adjustment, with the highest option being roughly 0.5” lower than the OEM suspension. This is enough adjustment to go from an “OEM+” setup to a low setup that will turn heads and everything in between. This isn’t just about looks though as a lowered ride height offers a lower center of gravity, reduced body roll, and improves driver confidence.
One final unconventional touch is the inverted monotube design of the front coilovers. Instead of a more conventional and cost-effective design, this uses a 180° rotated damper design. This improves the rigidity and reliability of the strut while also removing a little bit of unsprung weight. You get great driver feedback from this style of design, which is why we specifically chose it!
The CorkSport Coilover kit is a great upgrade for whatever corner you want to throw at your GEN3. Be sure to check out the product listing for more details and images.
Don’t hesitate to call us with any questions you may have as well, we’re happy to help!
CorkSport Performance Coilovers for 2014-2018 Mazda 3 and 2014-2017 & 2018+ Mazda 6 July 21st, 2020Sky
Are you building your motor, and trying to figure out your next setup? Say no more…
This next blog is going to focus on making some big power numbers, and what it takes to get there. Now is the time to go beyond the scope of the 400 Whp look at what it takes for 500 Whp.
As stated in our 400 WHP blog, this is not an all-inclusive guide and the only way to achieve these power levels… However, it’s something that’s been tried and tested for years and proven to be a reliable method of making the power you’re after. We are aiming to educate you in the best way to make the most out of your MZR engine.
Let’s get started
With the MZR engine being out for over 10 years, it’s had a lot of time under the knife. We know how the engine responds to different airflow mods, tuning characteristics, fuel, etc.
We also know that 400 Whp is about the limit of the stock bottom end on the Mazdaspeed 3. If you have a Mazdaspeed 6, then you can assume it’d be a bit less given you have AWD and need to account for further drivetrain loss.
It is beyond this point that the motor is in danger and could potentially let go. Keep in mind that at 400 Whp you are nearly doubling OEM power output, and that’s a lot of strain on those pistons and rods that were never designed to endure that power long term. If you are wanting to go beyond 400 Whp then you should know that you are also looking at the price tag of a Built motor.
Now, if you are relatively new to this, and aren’t very familiar with the basic building blocks of the platform such as the Cobb Accessport, and Upgraded Fuel Pump Internals, then I invite you to read our 400 Whp Blog to build a good foundation. Do you feel you have a good understanding of what it takes to get to 400 Whp? Then you are ready to read on!
When you’re at a point in your build that you are seeking 500 Whp then it’s safe to say that you probably have gotten the more tedious stuff out of the way… You probably have about every bolt-on modification, and you understand what it’s like to work with a professional tuner.
That being said, let’s do a bit of a recap on the 400 Whp mods, so you have a good idea of where we need to go from here.
These are all the recommended/required mods to increase engine airflow and efficiency to make 400 WHP.
– Stock Fueling on Pump Gas usually nets around 330-350 Whp depending on octane and gas quality.
– Stock Fueling on E85 blend fuel usually nets around 370-390 Whp depending on Tune aggression and also Quality of the gas and E85.
– With Aux fueling such as port fuel, or methanol you can easily bump up over the 400 Whp mark and beyond. (I’ll get into the differences more in a bit)
Putting down 500 Whp pretty much requires many of the same mods that 400 Whp does, BUT the primary game changers are the Advanced Bolt On’s and Fuel.
(If you’d like to refresh your memory on the basic bolt-ons and how they affect your Mazda please refer to the 400 Whp blog.)
I’m ready for more POWAHH
In the grand scheme of things, making the 400whp is relatively easy and affordable considering it can be done on the stock block. With bolt on parts, fuel, and a tune you can easily hit that number. But as soon as you want to make more, you’re looking at a built engine, as previously mentioned, And that’s a whole new can of worms.
So, what’s all involved in a built motor? That’s a bit of an open-ended question as there are so many variables to take into consideration. However, “built” engines usually contain forged pistons and rods with upgraded bearings to handle more abuse. From there, the complexity increases as you get into port work, cams, etc. I will touch on that a bit more later.
Fortunately for you, most engine builders have their entry level engine ready to handle 500 wheel horsepower and it’s a pretty basic build that features stronger internals. But, the tedious stuff like port work is usually reserved for the higher tier engines that are usually built for more power.
I won’t get into the engine building side of things, as that could turn into a whole other tangent. But you can assume that a built motor may cost you anywhere from 5k and up dependent on the level of motor you go with. From there we can start piecing together our 500 Whp build.
Let’s Talk TURBO’S (Crowd Cheers)
The turbo is the heart and soul of the Zoom-Zoom, so it seems like a suitable place to start.
As we know, the CST4 is happy up to around 400+ Whp. Which is why it was the recommended turbo in the 400whp blog. But now we are ready to take a step up to the CST5 which is happy up to… You guessed it! 500+ Whp. With the ability to hit 20 PSI by 3500-3600 RPM and Carry out 30 PSI it really packs a punch for its size. You may be needing to upgrade your intake to pair to the T5, I’d recommend our Power Series 3.5” Intake I mentioned earlier. It will come with the 4” coupler required to mate up to the turbo.
The turbo is available with an internal gate, or an External Gate so you can choose what works best for you. Both options can hit the same power numbers.
Let’s Talk Fuel
“What options do I have for bigger injectors?”
At CorkSport I get this question rather often. Unfortunately, I must tell them “There aren’t any”
Without going too off topic here I will explain why.
Our cars feature a Direct Injection fuel system or DI… And by today’s standards, it’s a bit primitive. The MZR DISI was one of the first pioneers of modern DI, which is probably why the OEM high-pressure fuel pump can’t even sustain the full potential of the factory injectors. Don’t worry, the CorkSport Fuel Pump internals fixes that problem.
Port Injection is simple and easy to maintain. It works by spraying low pressure fuel into the intake runner where it atomizes in the air stream before entering the combustion chamber. For car guys, it’s fantastic and easy to swap out injectors when you are ready for more fuel.
Direct Injection takes a whole new approach. Instead of the fuel going in through the intake manifold, it goes DIRECTLY into the combustion chamber.
In order to overcome the force of compression, the fuel must be highly pressurized in order to atomize correctly. It also must deliver more volume in a shorter amount of time. This is why your Mazdaspeed has a high-pressure fuel pump.
This causes a whole lot of complications for injector developers because things like fuel pressure also become a huge variable when attempting to create a larger Direct Injector. The bigger the hole on the injector, the more fuel pressure required to create adequate atomization. Combining that with the rarity, and size of the Mazdaspeed platform, it’s just not worth it for any manufacturer to develop one.
So, what’s the solution to getting more fuel? Well… As previously mentioned, you pretty much have 2 choices Port Injection, or Methanol. Since both of these are considered Auxiliary fueling, they are controlled by separate controllers, unless you want to ball out and get a Motec ECU that can control the OEM engine systems, as well as your port fuel.
Choosing which system, you want to go with solely depends on your power goals, and how much money you have to spend. Those 2 factors are pretty much the only question you need to ask yourself.
Methanol – Cheap and simple
Port Injection – Expensive and Reliable
You must remember that the OEM fuel system, even with E85 in your tank is only good up to around 370-390 whp. So, everything beyond that is supported by your AUX fueling. If your extra fuel system stops spraying for any reason, that could lead to catastrophic damage depending on how much you’re relying on it. When you’re just trying to nudge over the 400 whp mark on a CST4 or CST5 then Methanol is usually fine in my opinion. But beyond that, I’d be concerned with the reliability aspect.
When you have a properly set up port fuel kit (Manifold with fuel rail required) it behaves almost as if there is no AUX fueling system. This is especially the case when you have it all integrated into your factory gas tank and don’t need to fill up a separate cell. A quality Port Fuel Kit is pretty full-proof.
You’ll have to make the decision that’s best for you, but I’d recommend a port fuel kit to support 500 Whp, vs a heavy spraying methanol kit.
Let’s Talk Manifolds
Manifolds are responsible for transferring all the air in and out of the motor from their respective cylinder. This job is an important one as it needs to distribute the gases as evenly as possible. The more even the flow, the better the performance!
On the Mazdaspeed Platform, the OEM intake manifold is known to be the bigger restriction over its exhaust counterpart. With very unequal flow distribution across the 4 runners, it has been proven not only to restrict power but also cause premature wear and tear on cylinder #3; here’s why.
This is caused by “over-feeding” air to #3 in comparison to the other cylinders. Over time this #3 is actively running leaner than its counterparts which is why it’s been deemed the most common cylinder to blow if an engine does give way.
It is because of this, that I always recommend a CorkSport intake manifold for even stock power levels. It may not be required to make 500 Whp, since you can essentially just turn up the boost to counteract the restriction. But in the name of reliability and efficiency, you should always try to help your engine breathe with the most minimal effort while also helping it maintain its health.
The OEM Exhaust manifold may not be as bad as the intake manifold, but it’s still not ideal, especially at this power level. A performance exhaust manifold needs to be designed with exhaust scavenging in mind.
Exhaust scavenging is a very cool effect. The exhaust gases leaving the combustion chamber travel out the individual runners and enter the collector. It’s at this point where it creates a vacuum-like effect on the runners, assisting the exhaust gases to escape from the other cylinders. This constant scavenging helps improve exhaust flow dramatically, especially when you start making power over 400 Whp.
You can learn more about exhaust Scavenging in our Blog that dives deep into it and shows examples comparing our Exhaust Manifold to OEM!
When you replace both the Intake and Exhaust Manifolds with a performance unit you are drastically helping your motor improve its efficiency, which can mean 3 things.
1. Make the same power on less boost. 2. Make more power on the same boost. 3. Make Way more power on way more boost.
When you have to push your car less to make the power you want, reliability improves, and it also needs more room on the table for when you want to make even more power later on. That leads us to our next topic, Efficiency Mods.
The Cherry’s On Top
With a built motor, full bolt ons, fuel, and a big enough turbo you can easily hit 500 whp.
However, efficiency mods such as Camshafts or Throttle Body will help you make more power easier, or really push the limits your turbo by improving its ability to perform.
Our CS Camshafts are ideal when you start getting into this power range. It helps with everything from turbo spool, midrange power, and top end. Even on K04 powered speed 3’s / 6’s our cams netted around 20 Whp. You can imagine the kind of exponential improvements it can make as you move up in power.
That being said, if you’re already having a motor built, or you happen to be going inside your motor, its not a bad idea at all to toss these cams in. They will only help you, and if anything, help your car to not need to work so hard when you’re pushing its limits.
To top that off something like our CorkSport Throttle Body has been proven to make more horsepower and flow 33% more CFM than the OEM unit. Up until recently, no other throttle body has been a viable option due to drivability issues. But CS now offers a drop in plug and play unit that doesn’t come with the problems and utilizes OEM ECU logic to function. Modifications like the throttle body are the awesome little bonuses you can do to help the car hit that 500 Whp mark even easier.
So, to cover everything that we’ve learned: This is what we recommend to achieve 500 WHP