We recently came across one of the original CorkSport EBCS prototypes which gave us a perfect opportunity to break it down and give you all an in-depth look. Read on as I go through what makes the CS EBCS tick, and more importantly how it gives you great boost control on your Mazdaspeed.
Just as a refresher before we dive in, an electronic boost control solenoid (EBCS) allows for precise boost control by using an electric solenoid to help control the wastegate. A boost reference travels to the EBCS where it can either push on the wastegate diaphragm or vent to the turbo inlet pipe. Where the air travels is controlled by the solenoid.
Obviously, the specifics change slightly depending on a number of factors with the turbocharger setup, but the concepts remain similar. Since the solenoid is electronic, it can be controlled within a tune. This means you are not wholly controlling your maximum boost with the spring in the wastegate and can hit boost targets larger than the “10psi” spring in your wastegate. For more information on boost control and the different EBCS setups, checkout Barett’s white paper on the subject.
Now the above image is a little different from the way you are usually seeing the CS EBCS. Not only is it missing the sweet black anodized finish (early prototype remember?), it needs some assembly before it can function properly. Below lists the components in the system and a short description of what they do. Obviously, we are missing a few key o-rings to keep everything nice and sealed, but all the important bits are there.
Manifold: This is the air distribution block. Air/boost comes in one port and leaves through a different port. Where the air goes is determined by the bullet valve.
Bullet Valve Assembly: More on this later, but essentially the center rod (piston) moves in and out while the black portion prevents air from reaching one of the manifold ports as needed.
Tension Spring: Keeps the bullet valve in the correct position when the system is not energized.
Coil Seat: Ensures the copper coil stays in place so the valve can operate properly.
Coil/Windings: Creates a magnetic field when energized that moves center rod of bullet valve.
Solenoid Body & Wiring: Contains the coil and other components. Also attaches the valve to the manifold.
Each one of the “thirds” of the bullet valve corresponds to one port on the EBCS manifold. They are labeled accordingly above. As EBCS is energized, the piston of the valve is pulled by the magnetic field created by the windings. There is a small amount of movement; only about 12 thousandths of an inch (0.012”) to be exact, which is enough to allow air to either reach the wastegate diaphragm or pass by into the turbo inlet pipe. Again this is simplified as it does not touch on duty cycle-the valve is typically rapidly opening and closing (seriously, check out the white paper).
The bullet valve is advanced technology that offers the utmost in fast responding fluid control. In addition, its profile offers the ability to make a pressure balanced valve and have a manifold that fits just about anywhere. All of this tech means you end up making boost faster, minimizing boost spikes, and keeping boost creep in check. If you want the bestin boost control for your Mazdaspeed, be sure to pick up a CorkSport EBCS.
An Inside Look at the CorkSport EBCS November 27th, 2018CorkSport
Your Mazda breathes just like you do. Maximizing the intake of air for your Mazdaspeed and freeing up the expulsion of used gases (exhaust) will help your vehicle breathe better and go faster.
Intake to Boost Your Turbo
On the intake side, you can set yourself up with a Stage II Power Series Short Ram Intake, which includes our mandrel-bent turbo inlet pipe, custom-designed MAF housing, and silicone coupler. This will free up the airflow into the stock K04 turbo and allow your Mazdaspeed to breathe deeper. The average gains seen here are 10-15 hp.
Exhaust Parts For Performance
For exhaling, you want your Mazdaspeed3 to expel all those used gasses as quick as possible. With the CorkSport turbo-back exhaust, you are reducing the back-pressure and allowing your Mazdaspeed to utilize the potential of its turbo. The kit comes with CorkSport’s full 80mm catback dual exhaust, racepipe, and downpipe. This setup will give the average Mazdaspeed3 owner 28-31 hp at the wheels.
Power Gains Add 46 WHP!
Shown below is our 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 with the CorkSport Short Ram Intake & Turbo-back exhaust and stock turbo, compared to the same Mazdaspeed3 completely stock. The before number is 226 hp and came out to 272 with the SRI and Turbo-back exhaust. That is a 46 hp increase to the wheels with two products.
For those of you on a budget, may I suggest just the Short Ram Intake and racepipe? For this smaller investment, you can get an increase of wheel hp in upper 20’s to lower 30’s.
2010-2013 Mazdaspeed 3 – Best Way to Get 40+ HP August 12th, 2024CorkSport
Introducing the CorkSport Intake Valve Cleaning Kit. While designed specifically for the DISI MZR engine found in the Mazdaspeed 3, 6, and Mazda CX-7 turbo. Our kit is versatile enough to be used in a variety of direct injected (DI) applications and alleviates many of the pain points associated with cleaning your intake valves. For an explanation on why DI engines need their valves cleaned, check out our blog on cleaning Mazdaspeed intake valves. Read on as the CorkSport Valve Cleaning Kit could make your next maintenance job much easier.
Despite its interesting appearance the CorkSport Valve Cleaning tool was carefully designed for ease of use. Starting at the large end, the cone shape was selected to accommodate a wide variety of vacuum hose sizes (1.50-2.5- inch OD) – it even works with the oblong-shaped hose we have in the CS shop! A clamp is included to keep the tool secure on the vacuum. Due to the slightly flexible nature of multi-layer silicone, clamping the hose creates a seal useful to get great suction from the vacuum.
To provide the best fit for both the large and small intake ports of the DISI MZR, the opposite end of the valve cleaning tool also is flared. When in use, this flare compresses slightly, making for another great seal. This keeps the cleaning chemicals, media, and any carbon deposits from getting all over you and your engine bay.
Last but not least is the small diameter offshoot on the side of the CorkSport Intake Valve Cleaning Tool. This is the port for a media blaster that helps make quick work of dirty valves. It is positioned for easy use, where one hand holds the CS valve cleaning tool while the other operates the media blaster. An abrasion resistant hose is included to fit on the end of your media blaster and travel down into your intake ports for direct blasting. Unlike doing this without the tool, you do not have to permanently modify your vacuum just to do valve maintenance.
There you have it, folks, quite possibly the weirdest looking CS product ever created but it’s quite useful! Check out the listing for more details and to see the CorkSport Intake Valve Cleaning Tool in use.
Intake Valve Cleaning – A Dirty Job Made Easy April 15th, 2019CorkSport
When it comes to the breathability of your Mazda, a short ram intake is the best place to start. The benefits are immediate, the installation is quite simple and it’s genuinely the best first step to getting some power and fun out of your Mazda or Mazdaspeed.
Bringing more air into the intake chamber, the intake system allows you to increase horsepower and torque for your Mazdaspeed. Each is designed to maintain optimal flow and generate ideal performance for your Mazda, with exacting tolerances and using the latest in computer-aided manufacturing techniques to bring you the highest quality and best-performing part for your money. You can expect to gain up to 30+ HP from this simple-to-install short ram intake system.
Types of Air Intake Systems
Short ram air intakes suck in large amounts of heated air within the engine to help in efficient combustion. These are short and wide pipes because it uses a shorter pipe than the cold air intake, it only has access to warm air near the engine. To make up for this, it sucks in more air than cold air intakes.
Cold air intakes are a type of ram air intake system that works by drawing in cool air from outside and into the Mazda’s engine. This type of intake often has minimal bends and has a long duct with access to cool air. With cooler air coursing through the engine, combustion requires less heat and fuel.
Mazdaspeed Air Intake
Why Replace Your Mazdaspeed or Mazda Air Intake System
More often than not, car enthusiasts and expert mechanics recommend that you purchase an air intake as soon as possible. Even vehicles of the latest make and models benefit from an aftermarket air intake system. Below are five of the reasons why an air intake system can improve your Mazda engine’s performance.
Mazda 3 Short Ram Intake
Keep in mind, when an intake is paired with a cold air box or battery box, you create a great look for your engine bay and increase your overall Mazda performance. Also, when paired with fuel pump internals, you’ll be able toincrease the efficiency, power and set yourself up for future modifications as well!
Why replace your intake system?
1. Increased Acceleration
With an upgraded intake, your Mazda can experience increased horsepower. Upgraded intakes can also increase your engine’s responsiveness when speedy acceleration is required. Because there is more air available and ready for combustion with aftermarket air intakes, your engine reaches the desired speed faster compared to the stock intake that comes with your Mazda. Those who enjoy racing, autocross, or drag strips with their Mazda or who if you just like quick acceleration as soon as the traffic light turns green, an aftermarket air intake can help you enjoy your get up and go a bit more.
2. Greater Fuel Economy
Engines rely on a mixture of fuel and air to create an explosion that powers your Mazdaspeed. When there is not enough air pumping through the engine, your Mazda consumes more gas to compensate for the lack of oxygen. Stock intakes that come with your Mazda are designed to be quiet instead of fuel efficient, and as a result, they tend to use more gasoline. Pumping in more air via an upgraded intake can reduce gas consumption and translate to savings on fuel expenses. For those who are concerned about fuel efficiency…we should note here: that the enhanced sound may cause you to have a heavier foot and decrease your fuel efficiency in exchange for spirited driving.
3. More Effective Filters
The stock air intakes that come with your Mazda normally have disposable paper filters to catch debris. While these filters do their job in trapping particles that may potentially wreak havoc on your engine, the filters eventually require replacement (often a great upsell item for your local technicians). Aftermarket intakes, on the other hand, are equipped with filters that typically have to be cleaned every 20,000 to 50,000 miles (just some soapy water and let it dry completely before reinstallation). This not only saves money but it also provides a more effective filtration method that not only keeps debris out but also lets a larger qty of air inside.
4. Enhanced Sound
Those who like the aggressive sound of a roaring Mazdaspeed engine should enjoy our upgraded intakes the most. Because more air enters through the intake to the engine, it produces a sound that our Mazda enthusiasts find thrilling.
5. Better Overall Performance
With the simple installation of an upgraded intake, you can increase the overall performance of your Mazda. Whether you decide to go for the short ram intake or the cold air intake, you increase your Mazda’s efficiency, speed, power, and sound.
Looking for an intake system or upgraded intake components to fit your Model?
“Hey Bro, what flares are those?” A common question asked, not that I blame anyone for their curiosity.
This is a very niche platform in the grand scheme of things. So we don’t really get lots of options when it comes to widebodies or flares etc. Those of us who have been crazy enough to chop into our ¼ panels had to trust what we think will look good, cross our fingers, and just send it. Some of us get lucky, some of us don’t. I wasn’t in it alone though, I had help from a few friends, and some inspiration. So, here’s the story on how I flared my Mazdaspeed 3.
My good friend Brian over at BMSPEC has a well-known Mazda 3, named “Circuit Heart” Which just recently has gone into retirement. He was one of the first to ever put flares on the Gen 2 Mazda 3 body, and for years I said I wanted that look. When He decided to let go of his old Volks, I had the opportunity to take possession. With his direction, I ordered fair lady Z flares from that were originally meant for a 240Z.
I asked my local Nator Buddy Aaron Maves if he was down to help me chop up my Mazda and lend me a spot in his garage. Ironically enough, he was a stoked to be a part of the project, probably more than me. Once my flares came in, I got them dropped off at the body shop to be paint matched and started hashing out a plan. Since I work all day long, and flares are a rather tedious process this was going to be a strictly after work job and it ended up taking quite some time to get done. But the wait, blood, sweat, and tears were worth it.
Here is a little step by step process we took to get it done. If you are looking to ever do this to your Mazda, it may either motivate you or deter you away. Step 1. – Test Fitting
This part is very critical, and one of the most difficult. You have to Mock up the flare to be as perfect as possible. Usually, since the flares we try to use on our Mazda’s, they don’t exactly want to line up where we want, and we need to motivate them a bit to do so. Painters’ tape by itself will not be enough to hold it where you need. The way I got around this is by using 3M Double Sided VHB tape on the back of where the bolts will go, paired with the painter’s tape. Since these flares weren’t made for this Mazdaspeed3, I started out on my front driver side fender. Once I got it where I knew I wanted it, I opened up pandora’s box. I drilled my pilot holes into the fender, no going back now. That’s not even the worst part, because now I had to make all 4 corners symmetrical (No pressure or anything).
Matching every corner is not an easy task, and also something that is often messed up. All I can say is triple check everything, and then do it again. We had to find reference points on the Speed3 itself to measure from. The ground below could be slightly inconsistent. Not only because the floor may not be perfectly level, but because the floor jacks may be slightly different as well. Choose about 4 points to measure from so you can get an accurate X/Y axis measurement to link to the other side. You’ll want the fronts to be identical, and the rears to be identical.
Step 2 – Rivnuts
Now that we have drilled pilot holes in all 4 corners. We opened them up enough to accept the riv-nuts. This will be the threaded inserts that allow you to bolt the flare to the Mazda. We had to open the hole up slowly, stepping up the size of the bit each pass. Doing this prevents the thin metal from fraying and making sharp edges around the hole. You want the riv-nut to sit as flush as possible, so the flare sits close to the body. In this particular case, I used ¼ – 20 sized bolts, so I opened op the flare with a ¼ hole and bolted the flare on for a final fitment check.
Step 3 – Cutting
The most intense part of the process now begins. My buddy Devin Sorter who is a fabricator/welder came through to help with this. He’s very skilled with a cut off wheel, and I knew I could trust him to make some solid cuts that are symmetrical and clean. With the flares mounted up, we drew the line for the cuts. Remember you not only have to give yourself enough clearance for the bumps on top, but for steering in the front as well. During this process, part of the bumper clip will have to be removed as well. This isn’t a problem though since the flare itself acts as a support and keeps the bumper from sagging, even with the splitter on the front.
Step 4 – Sealing the rear ¼ Panels
Since the ¼ panels in the back aren’t just 1 layer like the front, when you cut into them there is now a gap between the layers that are left open. Even though my Mazdaspeed isn’t driven in the rain, it still leaves the car open and vulnerable to getting moisture in there and eventually causing corrosion. To prevent this, you need to stitch weld the panels together and then reseal it. Once the welding was complete, we used silicone to seal it all in and protect it from the elements. We also put some weather stripping on after the fact to prevent any harsh rubbing on the wheel in case the Mazda bottomed out or the tire somehow traveled up high enough.
At this point, the Mazdaspeed3 was done, and I bolted on the flares. The gasket you use between the flare and the body is up to you, there are lots of options out there. Thanks for checking this out and stay tuned for part 5!
