mazdaspeed | CorkSport Mazda Performance Blog

May 6, 2024May 14, 2024

Mazdaspeed 3 X-Clutch First Review

Many community members are asking, “What clutch should I buy for my Speed3/Speed6?” or “What’s the best clutch for Mazdaspeed 3/6?” and there isn’t a perfect answer because the right answer depends on your goals with your car.

While I can’t say what the best clutch is, I can share my experience to date with my Twin Ceramic Rigid Disc X-Clutch in my Mazdaspeed 3.

First Impressions

Opening the box I found a very well-packaged assembled clutch kit. This included the assembled pressure plate, discs, and flywheel along with a new throw-out bearing, flywheel to crank bolts, and a nice alignment tool. XClutch also included some generic instructions – They certainly don’t rival CorkSport instructions, but are better than most clutch instructions I have used.

Getting into it

Disassembling the clutch assembly I found some nicely constructed components. The material fit and finish was great along with the identification of transmission vs engine side of the discus laser engraved was a nice touch.

Something worth noting: Some clutch kits come to you in separate pieces. This makes you 100% dependent on their instructions for the assembly process (and a lot of times those instructions are lacking), but with the XClutch the whole thing came assembled. I like this because it gave me the chance to see how it was assembled and therefore made me more confident I would assemble it correctly on the engine.

Now let’s get the clutch on the engine. After disassembling the clutch kit, the first part to go on the engine is the flywheel after a quick cleaning of the machine parts and surfaces. Using the provided hardware and some lock-tight the flywheel gets torqued down. The flywheel was a perfect fit on the snout of the crank…a little persuasion was needed which tells me the flywheel will be perfectly centered.

Next is the first clutch disc (make sure you can read “transmission side”) then the middle floater plate. Following that is the next clutch disc (and again make sure you can read “transmission side”) along with the provided alignment tool.

The Tool

So I want to take a minute to talk about the alignment tool. I’ve installed many clutches in many vehicles throughout my life ranging from an OE replacement in my 92’ Mazda b2600i, Mazdaspeed3, and a twin-disc in a Dodge. Every single kit came with the generic plastic alignment tool that doesn’t fit great and flexes.

But not X-Clutch, their kit included a very nice billet steel alignment tool that fit snugs and did not sag or move when installed. This seemingly simple tool made a huge difference in the whole installation process.

Back to the install steps; next up is the pressure plate floater plate. Typically this is part of the pressure plate assembly, but with the Xclutch design, this is separate.

Last is the pressure plate itself which is what applies the force to the clutch discs. The installation of this is slow and tedious, but important to follow. The hardware must be installed and torqued down evenly around the perimeter, much like torquing a wheel but with a lot more lug nuts.

X-Clutch has clear instructions on this so don’t worry.

Bringing it back together

So your clutch is all buttoned up and now it’s time to attach the transmission to the engine. I’ll admit this was a task I was dreading…many times I’ve fought this process because the damn input shaft in the transmission just would not line up with the clutch disc and crank, but I was pleasantly surprised.

I don’t know if it was luck or if the alignment toll was really that perfect, but in one try the transmission slid right onto the clutch and aligned perfectly. It was honestly shocking. I can only hope your installation goes as smoothly.

Now the review you have been wanting…

First impressions are great. The peddle pressure is very similar to OEM, maybe just a hair stiffer, but is nearly identical so if you’re worried about a stiff pedal DON’T, it’s cake. The engagement point is around the middle right now, but I expect it to move up in the pedal stroke slightly as it breaks in further. I like this, but this is a preference thing.

Engagement control is interesting. Going from an ACT 6-puck ceramic to this is very similar in the “grabbiness” of the clutch since they are both ceramic puck discs, but the X-Clutch I would say is a bit more aggressive. This makes sense with the rigid disc design and the very high torque capacity…1,350 ft/lbs!

So here’s my suggestion and you can check them out here. Learn More!

Conclusion

If you want a OE replacement with a bit more headroom for power then the Street single disc organic is going to be your closest bet. If you want good street manners but have more power to hold then the Street Plus twin disc organic is going to be your best balance. Lastly, if you are pursuing motorsports and high heat capacity then the Race twin disc ceramic will be your go-to clutch kit.

-CS

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September 13, 2023February 19, 2024

All New Mazdaspeed Aluminum Coolant and Power Steering Fluid Tanks

For years, you’ve asked for them, and they’re finally here!

Introducing the CorkSport Aluminum Coolant and Power Steering Fluid Tank for the First Generation Mazdaspeed3 (2007-2009). Although we’ve had a 2010-2013 Mazdaspeed 3 coolant tank, it’s about time we added these tanks to line up.

2007-20096 Mazdaspeed 3 Engine mods with CorkSport products

Let’s face it, the first-gen Mazdaspeed3 platform is aging, and with that age comes ugly, yellow plastic tanks. We’ve even seen tanks crack and fail, causing coolant leaks, headaches, and eye sores for owners. It’s time we changed that.

CorkSport has developed a solution in the form of an aluminum replacement for these tired plastic tanks that fit and function just like OEM! Our tanks also come coated in a beautiful black powder coat that will look right at home with any color in any engine bay. Our tanks are robust and will stand the test of time for years to come.

But why aluminum? Why do we even have a tank, to begin with? What does it do?Let’s start by going over how a cooling system works.

TW: It’s about to get a little nerdy!

Understanding Heat Transfer in Cooling Systems

Think about a hot summer’s day. You’re sweating from a hard day of wrenching on the Mazda in the garage and desperately need a cool down, so you place a cold, wet, refreshing towel around your neck. Initially, when you place that cool towel around your neck, you only feel the cold in one place: around your neck. But pretty soon, you feel the cold spread throughout your body and begin cooling down.

This feeling, however, is misleading as there is no such thing as “cold.” There is only heat and a lack of heat. What’s happening is the heat that you feel on your body is being transferred into the cool towel, and the blood that passes through your neck is cooled as a result. As this blood with less heat (i.e., “cooled”) circulates around your body, you feel the effect of that towel all throughout until all of your blood is cooled, and you begin to feel better! You’ll notice after some time that the towel is no longer cool because it has absorbed the heat from your body and the surrounding air. Remember: heat moves from hot to cold and wants to spread until an equilibrium is met.

How Automotive Cooling Systems Work

Automotive cooling systems work on the same principle. Replace that towel with a radiator, your blood with automotive coolant, and the engine as a heat source, and now you have an automotive cooling system! As the cold coolant passes through the engine, it absorbs the heat generated by the combustion cycle and friction in the cylinders. Some of this hot coolant is then passed through your HVAC system, where some of this heat can be used to heat the cabin (this is how your heater works), and the rest is passed to the radiator for cooling. Once cooled by moving air, it is then passed again into the engine, where it works to cool it down. Then the cycle continues. This is the same basis of how Turbo front mount intercoolers operate. For more information on these systems, check out our Front Mount Intercoolers.

So where does the tank come in?

Naturally, as things heat up, they expand. Coolant is no exception to this rule, and this is usually combated with an expansion tank to capture any excess volume. What makes the MazdaSpeed 3 cooling system unique is that the expansion tank is incorporated into the main flow path of the coolant, with the expansion volume built into the reservoir design. This design of combining the expansion tank with a reservoir simplifies the system without the need for additional tanks or hoses. This can also be compared visually with the fill point of the cooling system. On most vehicles, it is located on top of the radiator, but on the Speed3, it is located on the tank directly. This means that the tank itself is pressurized when the system is hot, which introduces a challenge with material selection.

Mazdaspeed’s Need For A Better Tank

Since the OEM tank is made of plastic, it is more vulnerable to degradation over time. Once the tank has deteriorated enough, it cannot withstand the pressure changes and high-temperature cycles of the coolant system. It will eventually fail, leading to many owners complaining of cracks and leaks. The TIG welded aluminum construction and powder coating of our tanks mean that they are substantially more resilient than the OEM tanks and will last for years to come.

2007-2009 Mazdaspeed 3 aluminum coolant tank

Power Steering Tank

The 2007-2009 Mazdaspeed 3 power steering tank is much simpler as its only function is to hold fluid, and the system is only slightly pressurized, meaning no expansion volume has to be built into the tank design and the temperatures are much lower. However, the OEM tank is still made of the same ugly plastic as the coolant tank and has the same disadvantages. While this tank does not see the same failure rate as the coolant tank, we decided to take the opportunity anyway to fully complete the look of the engine bay and provide our customers with a comprehensive solution to replace all of the aging plastic tanks to improve the appearance of the engine bay vastly.

Fitment and Design

We understand that universal tanks are such a pain. We have experienced this with some of our cars and have had to design and fabricate custom brackets to make them fit. This is a headache, not to mention having to cut or move OEM hoses or custom-make our own. Retaining OEM fit and function is the easiest and most effective design for installation, and that is exactly what we have done for our tanks!

First Gen 2007-2009 Mazdaspeed 3 Aluminum Tank compared with OEM tank

If you want to purchase one (or both) of our Aluminum Tanks for your Mazdaspeed 3, today is the day!

Thanks

-Quintin, CS engineering

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May 13, 2021November 1, 2023

Mazdaspeed 3 Port Injection Fuel Kit

Its 2021, you survived 2020 and finally got those last goodies installed on your Mazdaspeed 3…you’re finally fully bolted. It’s been about 6 months and now you want more, but your Tuner keeps telling you you are out of fuel. What the Hell does that mean!?

Let me tell what that means and let me show you the solution via the BEST Port Injection Fuel Kit for your Mazdaspeed 3 or MPS 3. If you know this is the kit for you don’t wait any longer (Link to ALL THE FUEL), but I do invite you to check out the great information below.

Mazdaspeed 3 8th Port Auxiliary Fuel Kit

Say no to “out of fuel” and say yes to enough fuel to support 750+WHP! But first let’s take a step back to understand the basics.

Why is your Mazdaspeed 3 “out of fuel”?

The Mazdaspeed 3 and 6 use early technology for direct injection injectors which sadly do not have an aftermarket replacement and reach their flow capacity limit quickly. This basically puts a limit on the OEM fuel systems horsepower capacity. From what we have seen firsthand and in the community; the limit is around 360-390whp depending on the performance parts on the engine and the fuel used. The only current solution is to add a port injection system with either 2 extra or 4 extra injectors. We’ll talk more about that.

What is an auxiliary port injection fuel system? – This is a kit that adds (does not replace) port style fuel injectors to the intake manifold so that you can increase the total fueling capacity of your Mazdaspeed or MPS. There are a few ways this can be done and all have been done in the Mazdaspeed Community.

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2 extra or 4 extra injectors (aka 6^th Port or 8^th Port Injection)

While the CorkSport Port Injection Fuel Kit is designed for 4 extra injectors (8^th Port Kit); there are options in the community that only use 2 extra injectors (6^th Port Kit). CorkSport believes the 8^th Port Injection kit is the superior setup because it has higher capacity, is more reliable and safer for the engine.

With an 8^th Port Kit there is an extra injector on each runner of the intake manifold spraying directly into that one and only runner. With a 6^th Port Kit there are two extra injectors spraying directly ahead of the throttle body and then depending on the flow distribution of the intake manifold to disperse the fuel to each runner and thus cylinder.

Return vs Returnless Setups

This is another option for Port Injection Fuel Kits in the community. While both have their place, the CorkSport 8^th Port Fuel Kit uses a “return” style setup because again it has higher capacity, is more reliable and safer for the engine because it is easier to tune for.

In a “return” style setup the fuel pressure for the extra injectors increase as boost pressure increases keeping a consistent fuel flow rate per injector duty cycle which provides the higher capacity and much more consistent tuning. While the “returnless” style setup just plumbs the extra injectors into the OEM fuel feed to the HPFP. The fuel pressure does not increase with boost pressure and therefore the capacity is lower, around 500-550WHP.

Integrated vs Standalone Fuel System

Lastly is the consideration of how the Port Injection Injectors are fueled. This can come from the OEM fuel tank or from a completely separate fuel tank in the vehicle. Unlike the bullets points above, this is not really a “one is better than the other”, but more of “what suits the needs of your vehicle and uses”.

Integrated Setup

As the name implies this means the Port Injection Fuel Kit sources its fuel from the OEM tank and in-tank pump. This can actually be done a couple ways 1) via the “returnless” setup as mentioned above but that has its issues or 2) via a surge tank that is mounted in the engine bay or cabin…which has some concerns.

The surge tank setup is a very common “racecar” setup and for good reason. It handles high G load corning, acceleration, and braking great and also fuels the entire car, not just the port injection system. However the cost is usually much higher and requires relocation of other engine bay components so you can mount the surge tank. Along with that you can only use one fuel for the entire system so if your car needs a special high octane fuel then you have to use it at all times during operation, whether cruising or full power.

Standalone Setup

In contrary this is a completely separate fuel source via a separate tank. This can be a really great option for the enthusiast that does some spirited driving, maybe some events here and there, but also daily drives their Mazdaspeed 3. How is this the case?

With a completely separate fuel cell for the port injection system you can run the exotic race gas/ethanol in the port injection tank and run normal cheap pump gas in the OEM tank. When you daily drive/cruise you only use the pump gas in the OEM tank and when you want power the port injection kicks in with the high octane fuel. It’s a win/win, especially if you do not have ethanol close by and have to special order the exotic fuel like we do here in the PNW. However this does mean you need a 2^nd fuel tank for the port injection which can be a pain, BUT CorkSport has that covered in this complete kit.

Ok let’s recap on where the CorkSport Port Injection Kit for Mazdaspeed 3 fits in:

4 Extra Injectors aka 8^th Port Fuel Injection Kit – one injector per runner for more precise fueling

Return Style Setup – Fuel pressure rising with boost pressure for more capacity and precision

Standalone Tank – Cheap pump gas for daily driving and high octane fuel for port injection power in the secondary fuel cell

I don’t know about you, but this sounds like you can have your cake and eat it to!

Image Credit: Shift Sector Coalinga 2020

Let’s look at the components that make up the CorkSport Port Injection Fuel Kit. What’s in the Box:

CorkSport Fender Mounted Fuel Cell

This is a huge element of what makes the CorkSport Port Injection Fuel Kit great. This fuel cell is custom CAD designed specifically for your GEN1 and GEN2 Mazdaspeed 3 to fit hidden under the headlight behind the bumper cover. At 2.6 gallons capacity you don’t need to refill the fuel cell often and there is an integrated level sensor to remind you when you are at 0.8 gallons. No in-cab tanks and smells.

Mazdaspeed 3 Fender Mounted Auxiliary Fuel Cell

Quantum Fuel Pump

A 380LPH inline fuel pump is used. This is a Bosch 044 style pump that has the flow capacity needed and is e85 safe.

DeatschWerks Fuel Filters

Two fuel filters are used in the system for complete filtration. A pre-pump 100 micron filter filters the fuel flowing from the tank to the pump, therefore protection the pump from debris. A post-pump 10 micron filter filters the fuel even more before entering the fuel injectors, therefore protecting the fuel injectors from very small particulates. Both filters use a dual stage filtration design that incorporates a magnet and a stainless steel mesh media.

Spec’d Length 6AN Fuel Lines

No headaches and ready to go! Like our Mazdaspeed high pressure fuel line, the included fuel lines are the CorkSport Fuel Lines are spec’d to length and fully assembled ready to use. The lines are PTFE lined with stainless steel braiding and a hytrel coating for a sleek finish and protection against abrasion. All fittings minus on 150deg fitting are permanently crimped and sealed.

Fuel Pressure Regulator

An AEM fuel pressure regulator is used for this return style setup. This provides easy adjustment and setup of the fuel rail pressure with the included Fuel Lab Analog Pressure Gauge

Electronics

Too further simplify, a 30amp relay kit is provided. Relays are a critical component in setting up a port injection fuel system. This allows you to safely and reliably provide power and control to the fuel pump. With that a Hobbs Switch is also provided, this acts as a trigger for the relay to apply power to the fuel pump when a set boost pressure is met. Example: when you reach 4psi the Hobbs Switch will signal the relay to apply power to the fuel pump. This is a great setup for daily driven cars because you only turn on the pump when needed vs running at all times. It greatly helps the life of your pump.

Misc Hardware

Lastly is all the misc hardware and brackets to get this into your speed. We’ve got this handled and clearly show the install process with the online color step-by-step instructions.

Alright that’s what’s in the box for the CorkSport Port Injection Kit; now let’s talk about the other required items. There are 2-3 critical items needed to get your port injection kit up and running.

Port Injection Controller

The OEM ECU and Cobb/Versatuner tuning options cannot control the extra 4x injectors in the kit so you will need a separate controller and software for this. There is a simple and proven option with the Split Second Additional Injector Controller AIC1. It comes with a ready to run harness for EV6 injectors and the harness integration for power, signal and control are very simple. Check it out here and add it to your CorkSport Port Injection Kit for a one stop shop.

Split Second Injector Controller AIC1-V4H EV6 for Auxiliary Fuel System

Injectors

You will need 4x injectors for the CorkSport 8^th Port Fuel Kit. The injectors need to have 14mm o-rings top and bottom and the length of 34mm or 48mm (if using the CorkSport intake manifold). To use with the Split Second Additional Injector Controller AIC1; you will want the EV6 connection style. For capacity we recommend at least 1000cc/mm. To cover all these requirements just use the Injector Dynamics ID1050x. They are proven and reliable, you can grab a set right here with the CorkSport Port Injection Kit.

Bonus!

While this is not required for operation, it is highly recommended. The N2MB Racing WOT Box allows you to change the type of Redline and Launch Control cut to a safer method. OEM will deactivate the injectors for this vs the WOT Box deactivates the spark plugs. This is much safer for your engine, especially with running a port injection fuel kit. With this you can also Flat Foot Shift which is faster and way too much fun. (Insert Fireball Emoji Here)

Here is a link to the N2MB Website to get yours.

Why doesn’t the CorkSport Port Injection Fuel Kit include these items?

That’s a good question and we have a good reason. Originally the kit was going to, but we asked the community how they would want the kit and the answers surprised us. A lot of people wanted the kit minus the Controller and the Injectors because they already had those items. So we pulled those out of the kit as solo items you can choose to add if needed.

Installing this kit into your Mazdaspeed 3 is a day project with some buddies. Bank on 6+ hours due to the wiring (its always tedious, but important to do right). Read the installation instructions before starting the install so you are ready with all the needed tools and supplies for wiring.

I do want to note that like any project that involves wiring, there will be some wiring required for the install and the extra wiring and connection you decide you need are not included in the CorkSport kit. Every car is different and how each person wants to get things wired up is different. There is also some very minimal drilling required to install the tank mounting brackets.

I hope you found this blog helpful and informative not just to learn about the CorkSport Port Injection Fuel Kit, but to also learn about the other setups and options you can choose from. I hope this helps you decide what is best for your car and goals. Give us a call if you have any questions, we’d be happy to help.

Barett @ CS

April 26, 2021July 31, 2023

Vinyl Wrap With a Split Personality

Stickers are worth 5hp right?…So it was only logical to wrap the whole car in a GIANT sticker! Anyways, on a real note we knew that the @Halfmilespeed3 couldn’t just be fast, it had to look good and what Car Guy or Gal doesn’t want their car to look good?

We have a plan at CorkSport to wrap all of our R&D Shop Cars with an awesome blue that aligns with our “CorkSport Blue”, but we want each car to have a little unique character to it. Thinking about the halfmilespeed3 build and goal we had the brilliant idea of a split wrap…seems fitting right? Half and Half…

So what did the car look like before the wrap?

Metro Grey Mica is the color name and its pretty bland in my opinion. I added the white roof and hood accents along with white wheels to help brighten up the car, which it did, but it was time for change. Oh yeah; white wheels and track spec brake pads don’t mix, just an FYI.

So what is like to get your car wrapped? What’s the process? I can’t personally give you details as I did not do the wrap myself, but I was close to the action and watched it all come together. Respect to those that take this on themselves and to the professionals out there. It is a tedious process that requires attention to detail to get a great final result.

A local friend is a professional and was open to doing the work in the CS shop since the Speed was not in a running and driving state at the time.

Saul S. (@saulywood) did the work over a few weeks’ time in evenings and weekends. He kicked a** on a project that turned out to be a bit more difficult than expected.

Installing a wrap is a process of pulling, stretching, heating, cutting…lots of different skills and abilities to get the job done. All this has to happen without damaging the vehicle you are wrapping. It’s quite a feat.

Going through the process the build kind of evolved if you will. Luckily Saul was very open-minded to it and even a bit eager to try some new things.

Probably my favorite aspect of the wrap is the unique and new wrap from 3M. Called “Shadow Black” this wrap has a slight texture to it that depicts patterns sort of like camouflage.

We used this on the roof and in a narrow strip over the seam between Satin Black and Blue Gloss; it really added a unique aspect to the look and style and brought the two colors together. Pictures just do not give it justice nor can you feel the texture.

So let’s wrap this up (see what I did there?) with some finished images.

I have to admit I’ve fallen in love with my car again. The exterior of my car was pretty beat up and neglected with rock chips, scuffs, and just generally not well taken care of paint. With the new wrap there is a whole new rush of pride and enthusiasm to keep it looking amazing.

Lastly, and this is bit cheesy, I requested Saul to match my helmet to the car…

Why not right? It’s not just another black helmet and I love it.

With that I hope you enjoyed this sneak peek into wrapping a Mazdaspeed. Stay connected as we share more and more about the @halfmilespeed3 build…engine, seats, roll-cage, and power! At some point this season an event will open and we can actually race!

-Barett @ CS

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April 12, 2021July 31, 2023

Mazdaspeed Roll Cage Painting, a Necessary Evil

Safety first right? As much as I want to survive an unfortunate incident while racing my 650+whp Mazdaspeed3…I have a bone to pick with safety. Sometimes it’s a real pain in the A**.

Let me explain…and hopefully help you learn from my experience.

Today we are talking about how to paint a roll cage, specifically one that has been custom built to fit tightly inside the cab of a GEN1 Mazdaspeed 3. How does this relate to safety? Well…a cage is made from raw steel in “mild” or “chromoly” materials. Both of these metals will corrode/rust over time. Not only will this result in a very ugly cage inside your car, but it could eventually affect the structural integrity of the roll cage, and that would defeat the whole purpose of it.

With that I decided to paint the roll cage in my Mazdaspeed 3. I daily drive and race the car AND I live in the PNW which has lots of rain and moisture. In fact, in the couple weeks that I did drive the car with the raw cage, I was already getting surface rust build up…gross.

To add to the difficulty, the cage in my Mazdaspeed was custom built from scratch vs a kit so it was very tight fitting and I have extra “X-bracing” added for increased roll over protection. This just added to the amount of surface area to paint and the number of locations with bars very close to each other.

The roll cage/hoop in my #halfmilespeed3 is technically a 8-point cage with an added X-brace in the main hoop and between the rear strut braces. The X-bracing is what helps with high speed roll over protection, but with a weight penalty. Go look at any modern rally car and you’ll see X-bracing plus lots more.

Ok, time to get our hands dirty. Here are the major items you will need to paint your cage:

Paint – I used a rust-oleum paint & Primer Combo. Make sure it works with a metal surface. 2-3 cans will be needed to complete the job and I’d suggest a high gloss enamel finish. It will be much easier to clean.
Safety Equipment – Goggles, Face Mask (a real one with a rating for fine dust), Bunny Suit (because you will get paint ALL over you), Gloves
Scotch Brite Pads – You will need this so you can remove any rust build up (assuming it is minor, if you have a heavily rusting and rough cage then you will need to get far more aggressive)
Cleaner and Rags – Gotta clean the cage after the scotch brite process
Plastic Wrap – This is like industrial size cling wrap. Easily found at Home Depot or other hardware shops in the painting isle.
Blue Tape – A few rolls of the 1.5” will do.

Step 1: Remove everything you can from the interior (which may not actually be much if you have a cage. Take your seats out, carpet (what’s left), center console, …etc

When I had the cage installed I decided I wanted to keep the front two seats as factory as possible. With that I have kept my carpet, center console, dash, door cards, roof upholstery…other than the door bars from the cage, you would have no idea the car has a cage when sitting in the front seats.

Step 2: Scotch Brite Time! Grab a pad and start giving your cage a nice rub down. You need to go over all surfaces of the cage if you want good adhesion of the paint to the metal surface. Once done, do a quick check and I bet you find some missed spots. Get those also…

Step 3: Clean up time! Grab some clean rags and a cleaner that does not leave any residue. Clean all the cage surfaces to remove any dust and/or oil. This is equally as important for good paint adhesion.

Step 4: Time to seal up the car. My number one advice here is avoid wind if possible. This plastic sheet loves to blow away in the wind…it can be very frustrating. If you have a friend that can help, that would be a great idea.

You basically want to cover all exposed surfaces inside the car and a lot of the outside of the car. While you are spray painting, you will be creating a lot of overspray mist floating in the air. This will settle on all surfaces inside and out.

I completely wrapped my doors and door edges, inside and outside of the car a bit.

I completely covered my dash and shifter assembly.

For the roof upholstery I did not use the plastic wrap, I actually used a piece of cardboard to act like a shield. I held the cardboard with one hand, shielding the roof while I sprayed the upper sections of the cage. It was effective and much easier than plastic wrap for that area.

Step 5: Time to actually paint. First you need to get into your bunny suit, get your gloves on, your face mask and goggles. Be proud of how ridiculous you look!

Before you start spraying, make sure you are in a well ventilated area and do not have any other cars or items in close proximity; they will get paint on them.

Actually Painting: I would advise starting with the hard to reach arrears first. You are essentially painting inside a jungle gym so get to the hard to reach areas first so you don’t have to worry about touching wet paint later. I started in the center and top of the cage because I had to be in the car to do so. Then was able to get to the more outer parts of the cage while outside of the cage.

Applying the paint is a bit of an art. You want to apply smooth and consistent layers. Your hand is always moving side to side as you spray. Don’t point and shoot or you will get runs in the paint.

Do a first coat that mostly covers all the surface area, then let it tach up for about an hour or reference the instructions on the can. Then apply another coat of paint. Trust me you will find thin or missed spots.

Step 6: Get out of the bunny suit. Hahaha ya this can be a process

Anyways, I pushed my car back into the garage and let the paint cure overnight before removing the plastic wrap. I didn’t want to risk the plastic wrap touching/sticking to the fresh paint. You may not have that luxury and if you don’t I would at least give the paint a couple hours to cure before removing the plastic.

Other takeaways – this was an ALL DAY PROJECT. I thought I could get it done in half a day, but with the concerns about keeping the still installed interior looking good, I was extra cautious with the plastic wrap which added time. I also did not want to do this again later so I was extra detailed with the painting process. Checking for missed spots and thin areas after each coat.

However, the result was well worth the work and I have no regrets about painting the cage. I can now drive my car without worry of the cage getting ugly or losing strength due to corrosion. I highly recommend that you take the day or so to make this happen in your car.

I hope you enjoyed this blog and thank you for following along with the @halfmilespeed3. Stay connected (instagram, blog & “Built With Barett” video series) as we share more and more about the @halfmilespeed3 build…engine, seats, roll-cage, and power! Rolling into the Shift Sector 2021 season we will have more great content to share!

-Barett @ CS

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First Impressions

Getting into it

The Tool

Bringing it back together

Conclusion

Stay up-to-date on the latest news and product updates from CorkSport.

Understanding Heat Transfer in Cooling Systems

How Automotive Cooling Systems Work

Mazdaspeed’s Need For A Better Tank

Power Steering Tank

Fitment and Design

Stay up-to-date on the latest news and product updates from CorkSport.

Why is your Mazdaspeed 3 “out of fuel”?

Stay Up-to-date with CorkSport

2 extra or 4 extra injectors (aka 6th Port or 8th Port Injection)

Return vs Returnless Setups

Integrated vs Standalone Fuel System

Integrated Setup

Standalone Setup

CorkSport Fender Mounted Fuel Cell

Quantum Fuel Pump

DeatschWerks Fuel Filters

Spec’d Length 6AN Fuel Lines

Fuel Pressure Regulator

Electronics

Misc Hardware

Port Injection Controller

Injectors

Bonus!

Why doesn’t the CorkSport Port Injection Fuel Kit include these items?

Stay up-to-date on the latest news and product updates from CorkSport.

Stay up-to-date on the latest news and product updates from CorkSport.

Stay up-to-date on the latest news and product updates from CorkSport.

2 extra or 4 extra injectors (aka 6^th Port or 8^th Port Injection)