CorkSport is Expanding!!!

We have been working feverishly over the holiday to increase our capacity. We added another building which allowed us to expand our current warehouse so that we can not only serve you better but also keep more inventory in stock. 2012 was our best year yet thanks to you and we are heading into 2013 with big plans and will be sharing many exciting releases every month, stay tuned.

CorkSport warehouse

Happy New Year

From all of us at CorkSport

Product Release! CorkSport 2010+ Mazdaspeed 3 Axle Back Exhaust

Have you had your eye on a CorkSport 2010+ Mazdaspeed 3 Exhaust, but have not had the monies to shell out for an entire cat back exhaust system? If so, CorkSport has come up with a solution for you. Introducing the CorkSport Axle Back Exhaust for the 2010+ Mazdaspeed 3!

The CorkSport Axle Back Exhaust has been designed to replace your muffler with a straight through pipe to minimize exhaust restrictions and provide the nice deep tone you can expect from an aftermarket exhaust system, but for a fraction of the price.

As with our Cat Back Exhaust system, the Axle back exhaust features corrosion resistant T-304 construction to ensure a long life and is manufactured with exacting standards using mandrel bent 80mm piping for a smooth flow and TIG welds for a strong, clean connection.

The most visible part of your exhaust, the tips, feature 100mm polished stainless steel that will accent your Mazdaspeed 3 and provide a nice clean aftermarket look.

It is true, you will see more power gains by going for the full cat back exhaust system and in the event that you want to add a downpipe and racepipe later the cat-back exhaust is a better fit for you, but if you are looking for a little power, a lot of good looks, and a nice deep tone on an otherwise stock exhaust system, the CorkSport Axle Back Exhaust is just the thing for you!

The CorkSport 2010+ Mazdaspeed 3 Axle Back Exhaust is available in our online catalog.

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Add Power and Get Better Gas Mileage with a Short Ram Intake

When most people think about purchasing an intake, they want it for the performance increases. While an intake is probably the best bang-for-the-buck modification you can make to add power and torque to your Mazda, there is another huge but often overlooked benefit, which is the improved gas mileage.

How is that possible?

Most CorkSport intakes use a conical dry flow air filter with 3โ€ outlet that is much less restrictive than the factory filter. This directly translates to better gas mileage. We have also calibrated our precision-machined MAF housings and intakes to exacting tolerances and have designed them to work better and more efficiently than the factory intake system.

Short Ram Intake system for the Mazdaspeed 3

Whereโ€™s the proof?

We were beginning to get feedback from customers stating that they were seeing improvements in their gas mileage with the addition of the intake.

I have a brand new 2012 Mazdaspeed3 that is stock apart from the intake. With this new intake I have seen my average mpg for the last 12,000 miles of normal break in driving go from 28.4 to 31 miles per gallon while now driving in a much more aggressive manner during the last 1,000 miles. I am thoroughly impressed and I hope that this information can be of use to your company and other customers. – Alex B.

To be sure we needed to control the test conditions and make our own conclusions.

After testing the Skyactiv CX-5 with the factory intake system, we showed an average of 34.0 MPG. After adding the CorkSport Short Ram Intake, we have been showing an average of 38.5 MPG. This is a 13% improvement in fuel mileage just by adding the intake system.

Installed Mazdaspeed 3 Performance Short Ram Intake system

We then went a step further and did extensive in town gas mileage testing. Though the results were not as impressive, they were still substantial. The baseline with the stock intake was 29.3mpg and improved to 31.2 with the CorkSport Short Ram Intake. This is a 6.5% improvement in fuel mileage.

Of course the CX-5 SkyActiv was designed with fuel mileage in mind so getting great MPGโ€™s in this car was not surprising. This is when we decided to take our testing to the next level and see what could be achieved on the Mazdaspeed3.

Mazdaspeed 3 power series short ram intake

As it turns out, the Mazdaspeed3 showed similar improvements in gas mileage in the city, but significantly less on the highway. We had a 6.1% improvement in city driving and a 4.4% Improvement on the highway, with a peak of 33.2mpg with the CorkSport Mazdaspeed intake installed.

Some customers have seen additional increases, but the results are generally subject to how a person drives. Remember, with that increase in torque and horsepower, you will be more tempted to have a heavier right foot, too.

Whatโ€™s the Payoff?

With gas prices yo-yoing over the last couple of years, too, at some points topping $4.00 a gallon here in the Pacific Northwest, we estimate that the intake will be able to pay for itself in around 13,000-16,000 miles. With a national average of around 15,000 miles driven per year, you can expect your intake purchase to pay off quickly and then start getting money back in your pocket from the fuel savings.

Not only does less gas mean more money in your pocket, but fewer emissions as well, so you can tell all your environmentalist friends that you are doing your part!

To recap, better mpg, more money in your pocket and you a decrease in your carbon foot print. This all sounds good to me.

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Adjustable Mazda 2 Struts and Shocks at Last! Pre-Sale Now On!!

CorkSport is happy to announce the pre-sale of our highly anticipated CorkSport Adjustable Struts and Shocks for the Mazda 2! For those of you that have been following development of our strut and shock kit for the Mazda 2 on Mazdas247, the time has finally arrived for our pre-sale!

The CorkSport Mazda 2 Struts and Shocks are 15 way adjustable with the #1 setting similar to the OEM ride. This will allow you to customize your ride to your driving style and limit body roll to make your car more predictable and stable even without the addition of lowering springs.

CorkSport Shocks and Struts are made with gas charged twin tube shock absorbers to allow the shock to react faster and more predictably, for a quicker response time and will help to keep the tire firmly planted on the road. You will have the ability to change both rebound and compression damping simultaneously for greatly improved ride quality. This variable tuning range makes it possible to use for daily driving, B-Spec, and auto-crossing.

As an added bonus, the CorkSport Mazda 2 Struts and Shocks can be paired with the Mazda 2 H&R Lowering Springs for an additional 10% savings on the springs!

All pre-purchases will be charged at time of purchase and will ship the week of January 7th, 2013. If you plan to order other parts when you make this purchase, they will be shipped at the time the struts and shocks do, so if you want other parts sooner, place it as a separate order.

For more information or to purchase today, please visit this product listing in the CorkSport catalog at https://www.corksport.com/mazda-2-shocks-and-struts-by-corksport-performance.html

Gwynne-

Choosing the Right Wheels for Your Ride: By Justin Banner โ€“ Mackin Industries

Wheels Forward
If there is only one feature you can do to your car that helps it stand out the most, it would be your carโ€™s wheels. There are a lot to choose from, so looking for the right ones can be quite a daunting task. Things that you should consider as you choose your wheels are diameter, width, offset (or backspacing for you old hot rod guys), style, wheel mounting style, PCD (also known as bolt spacing), and construction. So, letโ€™s talk about those items in a little more detail.

Diameter
This is the first thing youโ€™ll see and have to think about when you go to look for your next set of rims. While it may not seem like much, this can affect your car in many ways. You can change the acceleration and speed of your car. You can increase or decrease the un-sprung weight (this is the weight of the car that the suspension does not carry), which will also affect the rotational inertia of your wheel. It will also affect the tire availability and sizing choices, as many tires are beginning to be phased out with OEM wheels no longer being made in many cases under 16โ€. It will also affect what diameter brake rotor and what brake caliper you can use. The smaller the wheel, the smaller the brake package has to be in most cases.

When you go up sizes, itโ€™s simply and usually known as โ€œPlus Sizing.โ€ A +1, for example, would be your OEM or current wheel size plus one inch. You can also โ€œMinus Size,โ€ as a few autocross and road racing cars do to take advantage of the added acceleration a smaller wheel and tire can bring (Iโ€™ll detail that in a moment). You have to be careful and factor in tire size as well. If you go too big, your wheel may rub the fender or fender wells as the tire gets larger and moves in turns, bumps, and normal suspension movement. You can compensate for that by decreasing the sidewall, but that brings its own challenges including a rougher ride. As mentioned earlier, you can affect the acceleration and speed your car will actually be capable of. A smaller wheel and tire diameter will give you more acceleration while a taller one will increase your speed. Thatโ€™s also something to keep in mind if you got a speeding ticket after installing your new wheels and tires.

Width
Width will affect the weight and tire width you can use on your car. Just as increasing the diameter, increasing the width will add more material which adds more weight and rotational mass. This means that you may need more braking power, however if your new wheel is made of lighter materials or a better construction, you donโ€™t have to worry about it. A wider wheel also means a wider tire which can equal more grip, but again, it means more material. However, if you are stretching a tire, you will go with a narrower tire with a wider wheel. This can achieve a unique look and better fitment, but at the risk of a bead blowing out if you go for too much stretch or hit the wrong bump or pothole.

Offset/Backspacing
Offset and Backspacing are the same thing, but just different ways of getting to where your wheel will sit in relation to the hub on your car. Offset, specifically, is the measurement from the center of the wheel to the back of the wheel hub that sits with the brake rotor and is typically measured in metric. A positive (+) offset moves the wheel hub closer to the wheel face, a zero offset is dead center of the wheel, and a negative (-) offset is closer to the brake rotor. Youโ€™ll see offset used in describing wheels from countries outside of the United States. Backspacing, specifically, is the measurement from the back of the wheel to the back of the wheel hub and is typically measured in SAE inches. Youโ€™ll see backspacing mostly on wheels that are manufactured by companies in the United States. If you go too far, you can cause stress on your wheel bearings and could make them fail.

Style
This is the most subjective part of the wheel, but there are more styles of wheel faces out there than I can count on 10 peopleโ€™s hands and feet. You can find everything from solid wheels, multiple spokes, wire wheels, and anything in between. There can be some detriment in choosing certain styles of wheel faces, though, in terms of mass and from lack of openings for brake heat to escape. However, there are also certain wheel faces that benefit your aerodynamics, brake heat extraction, and even wheel mass.

Certain types of wheel faces will affect what type of brake package you can use, so be sure to make sure your caliper will clear the face of your wheel choice.

Wheel Mount Style
How the wheel mounts to the hub is critical. Many aftermarket wheels offer the ability to be mounted using a hub centric adapter. This will physically center the wheel by the center of the hub as you mount it to ensure you donโ€™t get wheel wobble as you drive down the road because the wheel is off. Most of the time, this is done by installing a metal or plastic hub centric ring, but there are wheels designed for certain hub centers, too.

There are wheels that are known as lug centric, which means the lug nuts center the wheel rather than the hub. Normally, you can tell the difference by looking at the lug nut itself. Instead of a standard, 60 degree taper where it seats on the wheel, it has a shank with a washer and is known as a โ€œMag Seatโ€ nut. You cannot use a Mag Seat lug nut on a wheel that is designed for a 60 degree seat and vice versa.

European cars, in most cases, use lug bolts instead of lug nuts and come in two different styles, a 60 degree seat and the ball seat. Just as with the Mag Seat, you cannot use a ball seat on a wheel designed for a 60 degree bolt and vice versa.

PCD
You also need to be careful with the Pitch Center Diameter, PCD or better known as Bolt Spacing. While two wheels may have 5 holes, one may be 5×114.3 and the other may be 5×100. However, going from metric to SAE inch can work in some cases. For example, Ford 4×4.5 bolt spacing will be the same as a Mazda 5×114.3. However, this isnโ€™t always true. A 2012 Chevrolet Camaro and 2012 BMW 3-series both use a 5×120, but the Camaro is .65 mm larger in spacing between the bolts than a similar 3-series. The stud size on the Camaro is also a 14 mm diameter while the 3-series is only a 12 mm .

Wheel Construction
Finally, how the wheel is made is also important in choosing the right set of wheels. Cast wheels offer a much lower price point since the procedure of producing a cast is far less involved than the Forged wheel. However, a forged wheel will be stronger and lighter since it is made out of a single piece of metal. The act of forging actually compresses the metal molecules tighter, resulting in a stronger wheel that isnโ€™t brittle like a heat treated metal would be. This also means that the material will be lighter than cast and far lighter than OEM wheels, while retaining the strength and integrity of the metal.

Wheel Construction is where the majority of the copycat wheels fail at reproducing. They try to reproduce a lightweight wheel by casting a similar shape as the original forged wheel, but not only is the process wrong, the casting material is not usually as a high quality material as better engineered castings. This can be dangerous as they try to even reproduce the weight of forged wheels with inferior casts. If you happen to be buying a wheel used always look for proper marks on the back of the wheel, the right decals, or casting marks on a forged wheel. If you see casting marks on a forged wheel, that will be the most obvious sign of a forgery and avoid it.

If you are buying a wheel new and have doubts, that should be your first sign that you donโ€™t want to buy the wheel from that dealer and walk away. However, if that doesnโ€™t stop you, look at the wheel and make sure to see manufacture logos on the wheel, both forged and cast. Even still, contact the manufacturer or the distributor and find out if the dealer is legitimate before you purchase any wheel. This is especially true on Ebay, Internet Sales, and Craigslist dealer ads since you may not be able to inspect the wheel prior to your purchase. They may end up being forgery wheels and not Forged Wheels.

Final Word
As with any part of your car, always, always do your research before you commit to a purchase. Car parts are far more important considering that not only do they get us from point A to B, but they also have to do so safely and reliably. When it comes to your wheels, tires, brakes, and suspension components this factor doubles, if not triples. These parts stop, turn, and suspend your car and if you have a failure with any of these at any speed, the results are never good. Failure on these parts can lead to injury or death in worst cases.

Donโ€™t take your wheels for granted as they donโ€™t just have to support the weight of the vehicle, but also the loads the vehicle goes through as you drive. If you hit a bump or pothole wrong, it will bend a wheel almost no matter what the material is made of, but inferior cast wheels could crack or even break from normal impacts. Incorrect fitment can cause issues as well, from wheel bearing failure to tire failure from making contact with the suspension and body to even contact with the brakes. Itโ€™s just as important that your wheels fit as how they are made.

Finally, make a choice that you like, as premium wheels are going to be something you are going to enjoy for many years. If you get the wheel you like and spend the money on a quality piece; you will be happy the entire life of your wheels. In many cases, youโ€™ll even transfer those wheels to your new car but check if they fit before you install.

-Justin Banner – Mackin Industries

For more on our contributor today, Mackin Industries and thier product line-up, visit their site online at https://www.mackin-ind.com/