Mazda and Mazdaspeed Performance Blog

March 31, 2017February 28, 2018

CorkSport Power Series Catback Exhaust

The Mazda 6 guys and gals have waited long enough! CorkSport is proud to announce the Power Series Cat-back Exhaust for 2014+ Mazda 6 models.

There are two types of Mazda 6 owners in the community: a person with a CorkSport Axle-back and the person that sadly still has the OE exhaust. Well sit back, grab a beer, and I’ll explain why that needs to change!

First, the cat-back exhaust sounds great! Watch the video below and compare the axle-back and cat-back exhausts. While they both sound awesome, you can tell the cat-back brings a whole new level of greatness. It’s not especially louder than the axle-back, but it provides a deeper rumble to the exhaust note throughout the RPM range. Best of all there isn’t a significant increase in cabin drone, so you can still enjoy your long cruises to the beach with friends.

Second, the cat-back exhaust looks great! Starting from the exhaust manifold, you have a thick, laser-cut flange that bolts right to the OE exhaust manifold. Following that is the machined O2 sensor bung that is precision-TIG welded. Next up are some multi-point hangers to get your exhaust in place with a large packing-filled resonator that helps manage the cabin drone we talked about earlier. Continue along those gorgeous lines of the Mazda 6, and you find yourself at the axle-back section. Here you will find two packing-filled resonators and two double-wall tips that only extenuate the curves of the Mazda 6.

Now that I have your attention, let’s talk about the most exciting aspect of the CorkSport Power Series Cat-back Exhaust. It makes power! That’s right ladies and gentlemen: More power could be yours if you improve your exhaust style and sound.

For an otherwise 100 percent stock car with no additional tuning, the improvements are impressive. I think the real turning point is the unsightly squashed section of the mid-pipe. Check it out below.

Yeah, that looks awful. Now let’s see the numbers. Check out this dynograph to see some other impressive curves. The Mazda 6 performs a whole lot better with the addition of the cat-back.

If that doesn’t convince you that the change is worth it, nothing will! Although, have I mentioned that the CorkSport Power Series Cat-back Exhaust is manufactured and CNC-formed from 60.5mm T-304 stainless steel pipe? It’ll look great for years to come.

Ready to install your Mazda 6 Cat-back Exhaust? Once you do, share a video or photo with us on our Facebook or Twitter pages. Have fun out there!

-Barett @ CS

March 10, 2017

New Third Generation Shocks and Struts

CorkSport Third Generation Shocks and Struts

This post goes out to all of our awesome third generation fans, we haven’t forgotten you. In fact, we love you! And so, we’ve created a new, rad product to take your Mazda 3 to the next level. Your older sibling, the Mazdaspeed 3, has loved these beauties for years, so we thought it was about time to share the love with the third generation rides.

Introducing performance adjustable struts and shocks for the 2014+ Mazda 3! And Mazda 6 fans, you just hold on …

Why struts and shocks matter

Before we get into all the awesome details of these new performance struts for your Mazda 3, let’s talk about why performance struts and shocks are so critical to your vehicle.

Everything you do with your Mazda happens through the tires. Whether it’s commuting, canyon carving, driving at an autocross event, or showing up to your favorite car meet, it all happens through your tires. That said, we can’t give the tires all the glory, because everything they communicate gets translated through your suspension. This comes in many forms classified as handling performance: accelerating, decelerating (braking), cornering, and steering response are the key aspects. All of these characteristics work great (albeit soft and numb) in OE form, and they do all work together as designed, buy we can do better than that. You’re an auto enthusiast now, so you install those awesome CorkSport lowering springs and really start to push your car past its OE limits. It feels great initially, but you quickly hit the limits of the OE struts and shocks damping range, which means it’s time to upgrade.

When you lower your Mazda with higher rate springs you push the OE struts/shocks out of their effective damping range. This can directly affect the characteristics I mentioned above. Increasing the damping to better match the higher spring rates will put the suspension back to its balanced design, but with more emphasis on performance. The sacrifices you made for the lower and stiffer suspension are now less of a compromise and an even greater benefit. It’s a win-win folks.

Time to upgrade those shocks and struts

You now understand why you need performance struts and shocks, but why do you want CorkSport performance struts and shocks? First off, they fit like OE. There is nothing more frustrating than being mid-install under your Mazda and the part just won’t fit. Not with CorkSport parts, folks! We wouldn’t do that to you because we know how much it sucks. Second, we designed the damping range to have a great flexibility depending on your setup. The softest setting will allow you to basically match the OE damping rate, if you’re still rocking OE springs and comfort is your highest goal. However, if you like to push you Mazda to the limits then turn up the damping to up to 70 percent stiffer than OE, or anywhere in-between, with 15 positions to choose from. You really can setup your Mazda just how you want.

Lastly, it is so easy to make adjustments with these shocks and struts. If you like a softer ride during your commutes, but want to push the car on the weekends, just pop your hood to adjust the front and reach into your wheel well to adjust the rears. Don’t wait any longer my fellow Mazda enthusiast, take your Mazda 3 to the next level.

February 27, 2017February 21, 2018

Pre-Production Update: New CorkSport 72mm Throttle Body

GEN-6-497 72mm Throttle Body Pre-Production

CorkSport continues to strive for new and innovative products to elevate the Mazdaspeed platform, even as many in the community have fallen away from it. For the past year, we’ve been steadily working on a throttle body upgrade for the DISI MZR that doesn’t force you to compromise between performance and drivability.

Our initial design process started with simulating various inner diameter sizes to see where maximum gains could be achieved with both 2.5-inch and 3-inch IC piping. The resulting best compromise for both piping was 72mm ID versus the OE 60mm ID. The 72mm ID also allowed us to retain the OE bolt pattern for a painless installation utilizing an O-ring for sealing between the throttle body and intake manifold.

Once the prototype was produced, we began the validation process. To prove and measure the true increase in airflow, we flow-benched both the OE and CorkSport throttle bodies. To reduce variables in testing, both throttle bodies were equipped with 3D-printed velocity stacks with a 0.5-inch radius.

The flow bench testing showed impressive gains at 28-inch H20 with a 12mm larger ID. Testing was performed at 25 percent, 50 percent, and 75 percent throttle plate open. We attempted 100 percent, but the flow bench we used could not support that high an airflow. At 75 percent throttle open there was an increase of 131cfm.

With the flow bench showing impressive improvements, it was time to put it on a car and see how it responded. Installation was straightforward, only requiring a new 3-inch silicone couple and T-bolt clamp. The first drive with the new 72mm throttle body was quite undramatic — I consider this a great thing because the car drove great. There were no odd throttle surges, no choppiness, and no unpredictability. Throttle response felt a bit more crisp and alert in a predictable way.

The first dyno testing was performed on a CorkSport turbo-equipped car with CorkSport camshafts and intake manifold. Dyno testing showed about 100rpm decrease in spool and inconclusive peak power gains. This may be due to the lower volume of airflow moving through the engine. However, driving the car felt better.

Next, we wanted to see how the 72mm throttle body would react with a larger turbo setup. We sent the prototype to a beta tester running a GT3582R at 34psi with a built and PI-equipped engine. This is where the CorkSport throttle body woke up. Check out the graph below. The green graph represents the OE throttle body, and the blue graph represents the CorkSport prototype 72mm throttle body.

Again, the results are impressive with a 16wHp/20wTq increase at peak power, but what’s even more impressive is the power under the curve. There are consistent gains from spool to redline. Spool was about 100rpm sooner, followed by a substantial gain from 4,000rpm to 5,000rpm and more conservative gains from 5,000rpm to redline. Both of these dynographs were produced on the same day within a few hours of each other due to the installation time.

So, you’ve got the info. Now tell us what you think of the new CorkSport 72mm Throttle Body. Comment below, or reach reach out on Facebook or Twitter.

February 20, 2017December 17, 2018

10 Tips for Garage Days

Garage days have been around for as long as the practice of modifying cars. Wrenching on your projects, some good company, hot food, cold beer — what could go wrong? Hopefully nothing, but that’s typically not the case in all honesty, especially in the Mazda game. Murphy’s Law truly takes effect, and what can happen usually will happen.

Coming from the Bay Area, where I was the main go-to tech guy, I usually had two to 12 Mazdas at my house on any given weekend. (How the homeowners association didn’t get mad, I will never know.) I’ve been around the block a time or two and seen what can go wrong on garage days. I’ve seen what turns a fun day into 20 trips to the hardware store, tools everywhere, missing parts, and the typical “What did I get myself into?” feeling.

If you have a big job coming up and you’re questioning whether you can do it, some of these tips may help you get it done faster and more efficiently, and ensure you have a good time — instead of pulling your hair out.

Tip 1: Preparation

Don’t wait until garage day to check the box. Always make sure you have the right parts and hardware in advance. Now I’m sure you’re thinking, “How could some people wait that long to open their shiny new parts?” Honestly, I agree. But some people toss the boxes aside and don’t open them until the day of installation. I’ve seen people go to put on that new part and discover they’re missing something they need. Get all the hardware taken care of beforehand.

Tip 2: Tools

Be prepared for different outcomes that may happen and have all the tools that you need at hand. If you’re lacking proper tools, I’d recommend working with a buddy who has a better collection. Having nice quality tools makes all the difference.

Tip 3: Rise and shine

Start early. Nothing sucks worse than nighttime falling with the car halfway apart (especially when you have work the next day and it’s your daily driver). If you can, plan your job to go over the course of the weekend so you’re less stressed and can take your time.

Tip 4: Plan for drops

Have a quality flashlight and a pick-up magnet handy. On a garage day, it’s not a matter of if but when you drop something important. There’s nothing worse than when that dropped part falls into the abyss or someplace you can’t reach. Keep a pick-up magnet for those annoying bolts. The flashlight is good for easily spotting shiny things, and for overall lighting during the job.

Tip 5: Really read the instructions

Thoroughly read up on the installation. Read the instructions. Read the forums and talk to some friends for tips. There is usually something helpful out there you may not have known already. For specialty jobs, know your torque specs and procedures.

Tip 6: Stay stocked

Stock up on brake clean, PB blaster, WD40, carb clean, gloves, or whatever else you might need beforehand. It’s annoying to have to stop what you’re doing just to go buy an item that was forgotten. Also, if you wear them, get plenty of gloves. Your hands will thank you at the end of the day.

Tip 7: Catch a catch can

Have something around to catch fluids. Occasionally, people get deep into a job and realize they have to disconnect a line they didn’t know they’d have to. It’s always good to have some sort of catch can. Especially ones that can be sealed off so you can dispose of it easily. This goes along with our first tip, but I’m mentioning it again because some people will overlook this.

Tip 8: Organization

Organization trays are awesome. Use sticky notes for trays or zip locks you can label to keep tabs on bolts and nuts for their component parts. This makes reassembly on a big job much faster.

Tip 9: Prevent scratches

Moving blankets or big blankets are amazing for preventing any scratches while you’re leaning over the hood. Also, blankets help to hold the tools you’re currently using. You can drape them over and attach them with masking tape to keep them in place.

Tip 10: Check your work

Once you’re all done, be sure to verify all of your work before starting the car. Verify torque specs, connectors, and the rest. After you start up, quickly check for any possible leaks, listen for odd noises, etc. For example, make sure no exhaust gas is escaping from the downpipe gasket.

I hope these tips are helpful one day! Make sure to follow the CorkSport blog for more Mazda modification tips and information. And, if these tips do come in handy, tag a photo of the finished product with #CorkSport on Instagram and show us your ride.

Cheers,

Brett

February 17, 2017December 17, 2018

Winter Projects Update: Break in Procedure

Over the past couple of months, CorkSport noticed that a handful of people — including a few guys here in the Washington and Oregon area — are doing engine builds over the winter. It’s very exciting to see more people raising their power goals and pushing the limits of the platform. As I continue to follow certain engine builds, I noticed that the question of a proper break in procedure always comes up.

We can all agree that making sure the rings fully seat themselves is the most important thing in the life of the piston, but everyone has a specific way of breaking in a newly built engine. Still, you may be looking for some guidance. Here at CorkSport, thanks to Master Mechanic and Technical Advisor Vincent Melon, we use a specific break in procedure we thought we’d share.

Life comes at you fast

Four months ago, I blew a quarter-sized hole in the notorious piston three that forced my hand — it was time to get a built bottom end. I learned a lot during this build process and, most importantly, learned what a proper break in procedure looks like. I wanted to make sure to list out the steps Vincent and I took to guarantee the engine would be solid when fully broken in so that we could help folks like you who might go through the same process.

Oil tips for breaking in your engine build

In our opinion, one of the most crucial parts of the break in process is choosing the correct oil to break in your new build. For people who aren’t sure which oil to go with, here’s what we recommend you run: Driven BR30.

Vincent has done a lot of research on this specific type of break-in oil and swears by it. This oil is super reasonable per quart, and you’ll need around twenty quarts by the time the break-in procedure is all said and done.

Burning the midnight oil

Once you have the oil you need, new plugs, and the engine put back together, it’s time for the crucial first startup. When you first start the car again, you will want to rev the car throughout the rpm range for about 15–20 minutes to get your coolant system and oil hot. This first step will work out any air bubbles in your cooling system. It will also keep any extra metal bits in the engine fully suspended in really hot oil. Once you’ve kept the rpms consistent for about 20 minutes, it’s time to change the oil. The next few steps are super easy to follow:

Change the oil again at 400 miles.
Change the oil again at 800 miles.
Change the oil again at 1000 miles.

Make sure when changing your oil at these increments, you keep a close eye on what the oil looks like. If you do not see metal bits in the oil you are changing, you’re fine. If you do notice a continued amount of metal in the oil, make sure everything is running and machined properly.

During the first 2000 miles, keep your rpms above 3000 and avoid cruising at any certain speed or rpm for long periods of time. The most crucial part of this process is making sure to change gears a lot. You can get into boost, but we recommend that you give the engine about 1000 miles before you really start romping on it. Once you have reached your 2500-mile mark, you’re good to drive it any way you like, and you can go back to using whatever type oil you want.