Make Way for the Pony Express

Today we’ve got a guest blog by a group guys who are die-hard racers. It’s a bit long, but it’s a very interesting read about doing much with very little, and the adventures involved in budget racing. Without further ado, I give you… Team Pony Express!

Team Pony Express is a group of friends who have gotten together to build a crapcan race car. Our steed? A 1991 Ford Escort. But not just any Ford Escort โ€“ this is the Pony edition, in which Ford did Colin Chapman proud and โ€œadded lightness.โ€ They took out the radio, removed the power steering, and allow all 88 churning hamsters of the 1.9 liter four to do their work on the remaining 2,491 lbs. In short, itโ€™s the GT3 RS of Ford Escorts, but Ford made the very un-Porsche-like decision to charge less for it.

Our particular car was once Aaronโ€™s treasured turbocharged beast, but blew the diff out the side of the transmission housing and the poor Pony was left to collect moss in the yard.

We watched in envy as the rest of the country got to enjoy the crapcantastic 24 Hours of LeMons, and we lamented the fact that the closest they came to us in the Pacific Northwest was the Arse-Freeze-a-Palooza at Thunderhill in California. Then, last Halloween, we saw the light: a new series, the ChumpCar World Series, with more or less the same rules! And they would have TWO races in our neck of the woods! We started putting a team together from the ranks of our Subaru-driving brethren, and began the search for a car. After scouring Craigslist and eBay for a while, we realized an ideal first race-car was right in our back yard. Or more specifically, in Aaronโ€™s back yard, aka the Pony Corral.

Our team consists of Aaron, the Pony Corral Proprietor; Kyle, our crew chief and resident Escort expert; David, the team photographer; Tommy, whoโ€™s in charge of our torpedoes when heโ€™s not autocrossing; Ryan, a pro at removing sound-deadening material while everyone else eats and drinks beer; Nate, Destroyer of Clutches; Nick, finder of all things free; and myself, Zach. Iโ€™m writing this blog, I guess.


Our motley crew

Out of this motley crew, Team Pony Express was born. Our first workdays involved removing the engine and transmission and tearing out all the unnecessary interior bits in the Pony. We unbolted and ripped out seats, dashboard, and interior trim, then attacked the sound-deadening with a hammer and dry ice. It took hours of work, but eventually we transformed a fully functional street car into a gutted, engine-less hulk.


The newly gutted Pony

After examining the suspension and brakes, we decided it would be a good idea to get some spare parts. Our Escort experts mentioned that the Escort wagons had larger rear drum brakes, so we sought out a wagon for a parts car. We found a running example in Seattle for $200, and Aaron brought it back to the Corral. We descended on the car like a plague of metal-munching locusts, and removed the front and rear suspension and brakes, as well as the motor. Then we thoroughly vandalized the car and put it on the street for the hulk hauler to take away.

Next order of business was to seam weld the car, install the brakes from the wagon, and install the larger 13.2-gallon Escort GT fuel tank weโ€™d acquired from the junkyard. We had a 2.0L SOHC motor from a 2002 Ford Escort, so we swapped over the accessories from the 1.9L, hooked up the 5-speed, and slid it into the car. We ordered a roll cage and welded it into the car. We relocated the battery to a sealed box in the passenger compartment, and added an extra pair of tail lights in the rear hatch area. Then, we thought, we were ready to start the car.

While all of this work took place we lost our shifter bushings. Knowing that the OEM 20 year old bushings would still be sloppy if we did find them we got in contact with Corksport and got our hands on a set of Bronze Oil Bushings. What a difference! The shifts are much more accurate and smooth. They will also take the abuse that we are going to be giving them at the race track.

We were wrong. The fuel pump whirred, and the starter turned, but the engine never caught, and the garage was filled with the pungent aroma of gasoline. Apparently the heat of welding the cage in had melted the plastic fuel lines! Another junkyard run was in order. We also wanted to upgrade the Ponyโ€™s stock headlights to some brighter HIDs, but didnโ€™t want to be the obnoxious guys running HIDs in stock reflector housings. Luckily I had my stock Legacy projector units sitting at home in the garage. Theyโ€™ll accept an H7 HID retrofit, and weโ€™ll get a much better pattern than the Ponyโ€™s reflectors. After JB welding them into place in the Pony housings, weโ€™ve got much better output.


Super night-vision mode

Having upgraded the headlights and installed the new fuel lines, we were set to fire up the Pony. The kill switch and gauges were set, the electrical systems seemed to work, and we turned the ignition. It caught the first time, fired up, and settled into an awesome-sounding lumpy idle. After a few seconds of running, Aaron said, โ€œIโ€™ll try the kill switch!โ€ He flipped it offโ€ฆand the motor skipped a beat and kept on going. Uh oh. He turned the ignition off, and that killed it. Then we noticed that some of the alternator wiring had melted. The electrical boys were back to work, and thought they had it figured out. The wiring problem, yes. The kill switch, not so much.

Our next workday saw the tires, Dunlop Direzza DZ101s, installed on the car on our gorgeous Acura โ€œFat Fiveโ€ wheels ($100 on Craigslist). Weโ€™re hoping the DZ101s will hold up well in the cold and potentially wet weather we expect in Portland. We also bled the brakes, worked on some of our secret underbody aero, finished the majority of the wiring, mounted the OEM gauge cluster, installed our custom โ€œcram airโ€ scoop and sheetmetal airbox, and labeled the switches on our beautiful wood control panel.


Our magnificent switch panel

By late September, the car had made a few shakedown runs on the road, and we decided to give it a real challenge. Five of our seven drivers accompanied the Pony to Pacific Grand Prix, just outside Pacific Raceways, for a full day of lapping on the .8 mile outdoor kart track. We shared the track with all kinds of high-performance cars, including a Lamborghini Gallardo and an Ariel Atom, and in total we racked up almost 3 hours of track time. The Pony was a hoot to thrash around PGP, even playfully kicking up a wheel going around some of the corners, though we did a number on the front Dunlops. The only issue with the car was a slow oil leak from the dipstick tube, which we stopped withโ€ฆpaper towels. Hey, it worked for the day!

Through all of this, our steed was looking a bitโ€ฆbland, clad as she was in her original white. One of our final work days remedied this, as we busted out the rollers and painted on a pair of blue and red racing stripes and some postal barcodes on the hood and the side skirts. We also finished painting the carโ€™s interior, painted our โ€œinner body aero,โ€ replaced a stub axle that had a torn boot, cleaned the MAF and IAT sensors, gapped the spark plugs, fixed the dipstick leak, adjusted a sticky rear brake, added a volt meter, cleaned up the wiring for the instrument panel, and made sure the defroster would run all of the HVAC systemโ€™s hot air into the windshield.

Finally, a few weeks later, we had our final workday, where we added our awesome enormous vinyl pony graphics and numbers, retouched some paint, and fashioned some very high-tech funnel-and-dryer vent brake ducts. After we finished work on the car, the drivers suited up in their full race gear and we spent nearly an hour practicing pit stops, with each team member rotating through driving, fueling, holding the extinguisher, windshield washing, and assisting the driver change. We had our stops down to under 3:30, which is perfect since ChumpCar rules require that we stop for 5 minutes if we add fuel to the car.

One last โ€œminiโ€ build day saw the Pony gain some LEDs in the wheel wells; a fresh air tube for the driver; the last bits of vinyl on the roof and hood; cornering lights; and a one-inch raise in ride height (achieved by adding washers to the top of the struts, above the springs), which should improve the suspension geometry.


Freshest… Air… Ever…

Our big day is only days away, and the ChumpCar field had better watch out – we may not have the fastest car in the field, but we’re sure as hell gunning for the engineering and theme prizes! We’ll be racing for 18 hours in Portland, OR at Portland international Raceway’s 2 mile road course.

-Team Pony Express

CorkSport – Not Just for Your Mazda Anymore

Being that I usually post about new parts coming out, I thought I would change it up a little and blog about something different. We are finally rolling out some SWAG with our new logo on it here at CorkSport and one of my favorites is the slap-on can koozie. It features our new logo screen printed on a fabric layered over neoprene. It also utilizes two of the old slap bracelets that some of you may remember, so it will fit various sizes of cans and bottles. However, it does not come with installation instructions or telephone technical support.

Being an engineer, I tried to come up with a way to still get some useful data out of this post. I came up with a comparison of two typical domestic beers straight out of the fridge: one in our new can koozie and one without. The picture below shows my two test victims (opened to simulate someone who is actually drinking a beer).

For four hours, I took temperature readings of each beer every 15 minutes. The ambient temperature in my office was about 73 degrees F and the fridge remains roughly constant at 38 degrees. As you can see, both beers start out at 38 degrees (the temperature of the fridge) and remain fairly similar to one another for the first hour. However, from hours 1-4, the can in the koozie stayed roughly 7-9 degrees cooler. This may not sound like a lot, but you have to take into account that it also keeps your hand from warming up the beer as well (I did not test for that, but it may be a good excuse to retest).

In the end, the CorkSport slap-on can koozie did its job and I had an excuse to drink beer at work, albeit 71.3 & 63.9 degree beer after staring at untouched open beers for four hours.

We also have our new T-shirts available!

Jake

Introducing the XCorder (More Like XTREME-Corder, Am I Right?!)

We recently added a new part to our webpage, the Xcorder. I had a chance to drive around with one for a few weeks getting more familiar with the unit.

The primary feature is the video capture. The camera is always running on the unit and the videos get saved in 1 minute chunks in an MP4 format. The wide angle lens does a really good job of showing everything in front of recorder. You can see the complete windshield the Xcorderโ€™s entire view.

I got a chance to test out the load sensor in the Xcorder doing product testing. I took the Xcorder out for a spin in the Mazda 2 with a new rear bar to get an idea of how many gโ€™s I could pull around a roundy-round intersection. In the video below you can see the path I was taking and the g-load spikes. I came close to pulling 1 g around the turn which is shown just under the video screen (the spikes on the x-axis). You also get a good look at where I was doing said suspension testing in Vancouver with the GPS location. After recording the video I noticed that I slowed down going around the corner. I did not want to slow down; my sub-conscience took over while driving. This will give me something to check while competing in the next auto-x. If I can correct a throttle lift at points on the course where I need to be on the throttle it can result in quicker times.

If you really want to amuse yourself with the Xcorder turn it around backwards so you can see the expressions of the drivers and passengers. You would get a wide angle view of everyone and their faces while driving. (check out those white knuckles on Jake)

If you have kids it also gives you a great deterrent against the sibling โ€œshe said he saidโ€ conflicts that can occur in the back seats.

Getting the videos off the unit is really a snap. The SD memory card pops out of the side which is super handy. The video and picture above, I pulled off the SD card on my laptop in a few minutes.

Is it worth the $199? You bet it is. The little bit of data- logging information I gains from looking at my driving in the corner testing out the g loads is something I had no idea I was doing. That little piece of information is worth it in competition events. The extra insurance the Xcorder offers makes an incredible value. Having a constantly running video recording can be invaluable. I hope I never have to pull a video off of the unit to prove who caused a traffic accident.

Derrick

Mazda2 Goes Autocrossing

We have put some miles on the Mazda 2 over the last month and a half. We are approaching the 2000 mile mark. At this point the engine is well broken in and up to the challenge of some performance driving.

I had a chance to Autocross the Mazda 2 on Sept 18th at a local SCCA event held at Portland International Raceway. I signed up the car for time only runs to see how it would do. If the Mazda 2 was to be in a specific class it would be ST class according to the SCCA rules with the current modifications. This would pit me up against Mazda 3s, Honda Civics, Mini Coopers (non S models), etc.

Since I brought up modifications, the CorkSport Mazda 2 currently has a prototype CorkSport Short Ram Intake, H&R Sport Springs, and H&R 25mm wheel spacers.

The course that was laid out was tight and technical with not many sections to build up speed. The weather decided to liberally apply water to the course making setting record speeds pretty tough. After taking my turn working on the course and watching other cars maneuver through it was my turn to give a go. I do have experience driving around cones racing rally cross so I am not a total novice. This also means I had expectations of what the 2 would do on the auto cross course.

For the first run I left the DSC (dynamic stability control) turned on. I wanted to see how much affect it would have at a maximum drive. The first few corners went well and I could not feel the DSC engage at any point. When I hit the first short slalom I felt the car try to rein in my driving. A quick back and forth transition around the 3rd cone combined with me applying the brakes to get the car to unload the rear tires to make a quick right hand turn got the DSC light to kick on. I could tell the car closed the throttle and killed some of the power because it took a second to get my momentum back up for a โ€œChicago Boxโ€.


Overhead view of cones as a โ€œChicago Boxโ€

With the Mazda 2 the Chicago box was a breeze, just drive in and out with just steady speed and quick steering inputs. After the Chicago box there were a few more corners and into another slalom which once again the DSC came back half way through it. What is happening is the cone side front tire is unloading enough for the wheel to slip and it triggers the DSC. After the end of the slalom there was a tight left hand corner which transitioned to a longer sweeping corner. This corner trigger the DSC as the car wanted to under steer to the outside. I was off and on the throttle trying to get the car to rotate and get back in tighter to the apex of the corner. With the DSC turned on the throttle inputs did not help. The final section of the course was a short straight which did a 180 turn to the left and the end of the course with the timing lights. To make the corner with the Mazda 2 I opted for the e-brake approach. It worked ok but I was caught in 2nd gear so I didnโ€™t have enough power to quickly get across the finish line after the turn. I netted a 52.68 for a time on the run which was ok for the really wet course.

The second run I ramped it up a bit. I took the DSC off and pushed the car as hard as I could. I discovered several things on the second run.

#1: The car will really under steer if pushed hard in the wet. I tried off and on throttle, left foot braking, Finnish flicks, you name it to get the 2 to rotate with no really sure fire method that worked.

#2: You can get rubber on the 1st to 2nd gear change with the DSC off. There were two spots where I had to get into second gear due to bouncing off the rev limiter and both of them occurred just before the slalom sections.

#3: With the DSC off, you can get the ABS to engage quite often. I had the ABS turn on several times with hard braking and turning which would unload a rear tire. With the brakes applied and weight transfer it was enough to cause the rear tire to lock up and trigger the ABS.

#4: Using the E-brake on the last corner only works so-so. When you get the back of the 2 swung around and get back on the throttle the car will under steer pushing you really wide. This resulted in some extra time getting the car lined up with the timing lights at the end of the run.

#5: You can use the E-brake to get the car to really slide sideways. Unfortunately the under steer takes affect after a few seconds and ruins the fun but not before you can get some great pictures.

The second run netted me a 51.86 second time but I hit some cones in the process. The third run I picked up a passenger to take along. I could tell the extra ballast was in the car. The run was slower despite not hitting any cones. If you are going to race a Mazda 2 in Autocross make sure you leave the passengers out until the scoring runs are done. My 3rd run was 53.03 seconds.

I got a chance to try out several different techniques for the three extra runs which had mixed results. The big handling obstacle to overcome is the under steer in the Mazda 2. We have a solution in the works so check back for updates.

So how did I do compared to the other cars which I would be classed against in ST? There was a Mazda 3 hatch which was running at the same time which posted times of 53.96, 54.43, and 53.59 seconds. A Mazdaspeed 3 running at the same time posted times of 55.07, 53.18, and 52.94 seconds. The Mazdaspeed 3 would be in a different class due to the power modifications but you can see the 2 would be competitive against it. If you compare the times against the more powerful cars you can see the Mazda 2 would do well. I want to try out the Mazda 2 on high speed auto cross courses to see if I would have the same success against the same cars.

Overall I really enjoyed running the Mazda 2 in the auto cross. It handled better than I expected with my driving style and proved to be very predictable.

I would like to give a thank you to Ceejay for the pictures I used in the blog. He stood out in the rain shooting pictures while I and the other MazdasNW people drove around the cones during the afternoon.

Derrick

Calling all Mazda2 Owners: New Parts On the Way!

After putting almost two thousand miles on our new Mazda 2, we have already added our own touches to the car to make it a true CorkSport vehicle. The two pictures below shows our CorkSport License Plate Relocation Bracket, which has been modified from the current Mazda 3 application to not only to fit on the passenger side of the vehicle, but also with a prototype Lexan frame (Production part would be a black opaque Lexan with our new CS logo etched on the face if we do go with Lexan). It utilizes the stock tow hook location so no drilling or cutting is required.


Another new product we have in the works for release in the near future is and LED kit that would replace the license plate, hatch, and interior lights with LEDโ€™s (license plate light can be seen in picture below reflecting off the ground). The kit would also include two LED amber blinker bulbs (for the front blinkers) with built in resistors to keep flash rates normal, but with an updated and refined look. Additionally, we are getting ready to release a fog/DRL light kit (shown in the picture below) for the 2 as well as the 3, 6, CX-7 and RX-8. As you can see in the picture below, the 23 LED bulbs put off a 6,000K color, which matches the LED light kits that we currently sell.

Finally, we are finishing up testing and validation of our CorkSport Power Series Short Ram Intake for the Mazda 2. It includes all of the features of past CS SRI kits such as a silicone coupler, T-bolt clamps, and a machined and anodized MAF housing (anodized version not shown in picture) and CS logo etched post anodizing.


Look for all these products to be available in the very near future. Donโ€™t see a product in the works for your 2 that you want to see made? Have an idea for any other part you want to see get made? Submit a product idea here.

Jake